ome 


HOME   LABOR   SAVING 
DEVICES 


BY 

RHEA  C.  SCOTT 


INSTRUCTOR    IN    HOME  DEMONSTRATION  WORK    AT    GEORGE    PEABODY    COLLEGE  FOR    TEACHERS. 
NASHVILLE,  TENN. ;  FORMERLY  ASSISTANT  STATE  DEMONSTRATION  AGENT  IN  LOUISIANA. 


ILLUSTRATED  BY 

MRS.  R.  E.  GAMBLE 


SECOND   EDITION,  REVISED. 


PHILADELPHIA  AND  LONDON 
J.  B.  LIPPINCOTT  COMPANY 


COPYRIGHT,   1917,   BY  J.   B.   LIPPINCOTT  COMPANY 
COPYRIGHT,   I9I8,  BY  J.   B.  LIPPINCOTT  COMPANY 


Electrotyped  and  Printed  by  J.  B.  Lippincott  Company 
At  the  Washington  Square  Press,  Philadelphia,  U.  S.  A. 


TO  THE  WOMEN  AND  GIRLS  OF  THE  FARM,  LOVERS 
OF  THE  FIELDS,  AND  FRIENDS  OF  THE  FLOWERS, 
WHOSE  HEARTS  HEAR  THE  CALL  AND  WHOSE  HANDS 
SEEK  THE  SKILL  TO  MAKE  THE  RURAL  HOME  A 
PLACE  OF  LIGHT,  OF  HEALTH,  OF  BEAUTY,  THIS 
LITTLE  VOLUME  IS  AFFECTIONATELY  DEDICATED 


382982 


PREFACE 

THE  point  of  view  from  which  this  manual  was  written  is 
indicated  in  the  introduction. 

The  aims  are  to  increase  efficiency  in  the  farm  home  and  to 
satisfy  the  growing  demand  for  useful  information  in  the  country 
schools. 

This  is  done  by  giving  suggestions  and  directions  for  practical 
work  to  be  done  in  the  home  and  at  school. 

Throughout  the  country  to-day  many  rural  schools  are  ex- 
pressing a  desire  to  add  to  their  present  school  curricula  dourses 
which  are  practical.  The  ideal  kept  in  mind  during  the  prepara- 
tion of  this  manual  has  been  to  supply  that  need  and  at  the  same 
time  to  make  it  possible  for  any  woman  to  use  the  book  in  her 
own  home. 

The  limitations  in  the  size  have  caused  many  omissions.  It 
is  the  intention  of  the  author  to  enlarge  upon  this  material  as 
the  demand  increases.  Ideas  and  suggestions  from  other  States 
have  been  dominant  throughout,  thus  carrying  out  the  true  demon- 
stration point  of  view. 

THE  AUTHOR. 

January,  1917. 


ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 

ACKNOWLEDGMENT  and  thanks  are  gratefully  given  to  the 
following  persons  for  suggestions,  use  of  material,  and 
corrections : 

Miss  Ola  Powell,  United  States  Department  of  Agriculture, 
Washington,  D.  C,  for  making  this  little  volume  possible  by 
inspirational  suggestions  furnished  throughout  the  preparation 
of  the  manual  and  especially  for  the  use  of  her  two  models  of 
jelly  strainers  and  illustrations  on  cheese  making. 

Mr.  O.  B.  Martin,  United  States  Department  of  Agriculture, 
Washington,  D.  C.,  for  his  most  valuable  suggestions  and  sympa- 
thetic interest  during  the  entire  preparation  of  the  material. 

The  United  States  Department  of  Agriculture,  Washington, 
D.  C.,  for  photographs  of  roller  tray  wagon,  water  works  system, 
and  ideas  obtained  from  circular  letter  prepared  by  Miss  Mary  E. 
Creswell  and  Miss  Ola  Powell,  of  the  States  Relations  Service, 
Office  of  Extension  Work  in  the  South. 

Mr.  Harry  M.  Lamon,  Poultry  Division  of  the  Bureau  of 
Animal  Industry,  United  States  Department  of  Agriculture, 
Washington,  D.  C.,  for  illustrations  of  poultry  house,  dry  mash 
hopper  and  chicken  coop,  and  the  use  of  information  in  Farmers' 
Bulletin,  No.  574. 

Mr.  B.  H.  Rawl,  Chief  of  the  Dairy  Division,  Bureau  of 
Animal  Industry;  United  States  Department  of  Agriculture, 
Washington,  D.  C,  and  Mr.  J.  H.  McClain  and  other  specialists 
in  the  Dairy  Division  for  assistance  in  taking  the  pictures  and 
for  criticisms  and  corrections  of  the  material. 

Mr.  N.  E.  D.  Talcott,  State  Agent  in  Poultry  Club  Work  in 
Virginia,  for  the  use  of  his  dry  mash  hopper  and  oat-sprouting 
rack. 

Dr.  John  W.  Wayland,  State  Normal  School,  Harrisonburg, 
Va.,  for  his  appropriate  dedication. 

7 


8  ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 

Miss  Elizabeth  C.  Cleveland,  Head  of  the  English  Depart- 
ment, State  Normal  School,  Harrisonburg,  Va.,  for  reading  and 
correcting  manuscript. 

Mrs.  K.  C.  Blythe,  Leesburg,  Va.,  for  permission  to  use  a 
dish  drainer. 

Mr.  C.  E.  Hanson,  A.  &  M.  College,  College  Station,  Texas, 
for  his  interest  and  helpful  suggestions. 

Miss  Emma  Chandler,  State  Agent  in  Home  Demonstra- 
tion Work,  Still  water,  Okla.,  for  the  use  of  iceless  refrigerator 
No.  2  and  directions  for  making  same. 

Mr.  Thos.  H.  Fullan,  Alabama  Polytechnic  Institute,  Auburn, 
Ala.,  for  the  use  of  his  milking  stool  and  suggestions  for  making 
the  shower  bath. 

Mrs.  Helen  Brown  Wolcott,  State  Agent  in  Home  Demon- 
stration Work,  Lexington,  Ky.,  for  ideas  for  making  the  dish 
rack. 

To  "  The  Country  Gentleman  "  for  illustrations  of  cheese 
making. 

Also  others  who  have  contributed  to  this  volume. 


CONTENTS 


PAGE 

INTRODUCTION 13-14 

CHAPTER  I 

KITCHEN  CONVENIENCES 15 

Vegetable  Paring  Table,  Wall  Cabinet  for  the  Kitchen.  Ironing  Board, 
Jelly  Strainer,  No.  I  and  No.  2,  Dish  Drainer,  Dish  Rack,  Coal  Box, 
Wood  Box,  Fireless  Cooker,  Home-made  Cook  Stove  Drier. 

CHAPTER  II 

DINING  ROOM  CONVENIENCES , 43 

Roller  Tray  Wagon,  Sideboard,  Screen. 

CHAPTER  III 

PORCH  EQUIPMENT 51 

Iceless  Refrigerator,  No.  I  and  No.  2,  Umbrella  Stand,  Blacking  Box\ 
Towel  Roller,  Porch  Swing. 

CHAPTER  IV 

MISCELLANEOUS  EQUIPMENT 67 

Dustless  Mop,  Folding  Canning  Table,  Fly  Trap,  Garbage  Barrel, 
Scrubbing  Chariot,  Sewing  Screen,  Shower  Bath,  Practical  Waterworks 
System. 

CHAPTER  V 

POULTRY  DEVICES 84 

Poultry  House,  Nests,  Egg  Tester,  Dry  Mash  Hopper,  No.  i  and  No.  2, 
Rack  for  Oat-Sprouting  Trays,  Dust  Boxes,  Drinking  Vessel,  Chicken 
Brooder. 

CHAPTER  VI 

DAIRY  DEVICES 99 

Butter-making,  Butter  Worker,  Milking  Stool,  Cheese-making  Equipment. 

APPENDIX 

Fundamentals  in  Woodworking,  Suggested  List  of  Tools,  List  of  Publi- 
cations for  Supplementary  Reading. 
INDEX 117 


ILLUSTRATIONS 

PAGE 
CONVENIENT   ARRANGEMENT  FOR  KITCHEN  DEVICES Frontispiece 

AN  EXHIBIT  OF  HOME-MADE  LABOR  SAVING  DEVICES 14 

HOME-MADE  DRIERS  READY  FOR  USE 36 

ASSEMBLED  MATERIAL  FOR  BUILDING  A  FIRELESS  COOKER 40 

ROLLER  TRAY  WAGON,  INCLUDING  COMPARTMENT  FOR  CHINA  AND  A  DRAWER 
FOR  SILVER  AND  LINEN 44 

ICELESS  REFRIGERATOR 54 

SEWING  SCREEN 78 

A  PORTABLE  POULTRY  HOUSE,  SHOWING  THE  EXTERIOR  AND  INTERIOR  . .  84 

CHURNING  OPERATIONS 104 

DRAWING  THE  CURD 108 

PRESSING  THE  CURD 108 

MOULDING  THE  CHEESE 109 

NECESSARY  EQUIPMENT  USED  IN  CHEESE-MAKING 109 


INTRODUCTION 

BY  PRESIDENT  JULIAN  A.  BURRUSS 

State  Normal   School   for   Women,   Harrisonburg,   Va. 

No  phase  of  modern  social  development  has  received  more 
attention  in  recent  years  than  that  of  our  rural  population. 
Advances  have  been  striking  along  all  lines  of  country  life.  It 
would,  however,  be  too  much  to  say  that  the  interests  of  women 
and  their  work  in  the  home  have  received  the  attention  properly 
due  them.  Frequently  farmers  of  the  highest  type  will  equip 
their  farms  with  the  latest  and  best  implements  and  machinery 
for  their  work  and  yet  will  fail  to  provide  their  homes  with 
equipment  equally  as  essential  and  desirable  for  the  work  of 
the  women  members  of  their  households.  Women's  organiza- 
tions and  the  agents  of  the  Home  Demonstration  Work,  together 
with  other  agencies,  have  done  much  to  direct  attention  along 
this  very  important  line  and  in  many  communities  labor-saving 
devices  of  a  most  ingenious  character  have  been  developed. 

What  is  good  for  one  busy  housewife  is  not  too  good  for 
another,  and  it  is  a  good  rule  to  push  a  good  thing  along  for 
the' benefit  of  others.  With  this  in  view  the  author  has  gathered 
together  numerous  inventions  of  home-made  devices  of  a  labor- 
saving  and  efficiency-increasing  kind,  and  describes  them  in  tKis 
little  volume  so  that  all  to  whom  it  may  come  may  have  the 
opportunity  to  make  such  contrivances,  or  modifications  of  them, 
for  their  own  use.  In  doing  this,  the  author  has  not  merely 
had  in  her  mind  her  own  State,  but  has  sought  to  recognize  the 
viewpoints  of  women  in  as  many  other  States  as  possible. 

The  author  is  peculiarly  fitted  for  the  task  she  has  set  herself. 
As  Assistant  State  Agent  for  Home  Demonstration  Work  in 
Virginia,  under  the  direction  of  the  United  States  Department  of 
Agriculture,  and  as  supervisor  and  community  worker  for  a 
number  of  years  in  various  rural  districts  before  assuming  the 

13 


14  INTRODUCTION 

duties  of  her  present  position,  she  has  had  abundant  facilities 
for  becoming  familiar  with  the  conditions  prevailing  in  country 
homes.  Having  maintained  sympathetic  relationships  with  coun- 
try women  for  many  years,  she  knows  their  problems  and  their 
needs,  and  she  is  also  familiar  with  the  sources  from  which  help 
may  be  drawn. 

There  can  be  no  real  improvement  in  social  life  in  the  country 
unless  there  is  leisure  time  to  be  devoted  to  uplifting,  cultural, 
and  recreational  purposes.  The  only  way  in  which  this  may 
be  obtained  is  by  means  of  labor-saving  and  time-saving  appli- 
ances. The  articles  here  described  are  intensely  practical  and 
may  be  readily  made  in  any  home  at  a  nominal  cost.  To  make 
two  blades  of  grass  grow  where  one  formerly  grew  is  certainly 
a  very  valuable  achievement;  but  to  save  muscles  and  nerves, 
and  to  give  time  and  energy  for  mental  and  social  and  spiritual 
development,  is  far  more  valuable  and  desirable.  If  the  informa- 
tion given  in  this  book  serves  to  lighten  the  burden  and  shorten 
the  daily  drudgery  of  a  single  housewife,  its  publication  will  be 
justified;  and  it  should  find  a  cordial  reception  in  a  multitude 
of  homes. 


HOME  LABOR  SAVING 
DEVICES 

CHAPTER  I 
KITCHEN  CONVENIENCES 

VEGETABLE  PARING  TABLE 

A  convenient  kitchen  table  made  of  poplar  and  covered  with 
zinc  with  an  opening  in  the  center  through  which  the  parings  of 
vegetables  or  the  scraping  of  dishes  may  be  put  into  a  pail  sitting 
on  the  lower  shelf.  This  saves  soiling  the  floor  and  many  steps 
while  preparing  the  vegetables  for  cooking.  It  should  be  remem- 
bered that  the  pail  underneath  must  be  removed  and  the  contents 
emptied  into  the  garbage  barrel  after  each  using.  It  is  not  a 
garbage  pail  and  should  in  no  sense  be  used  as  such.  Above  the 
table  hooks  on  which  hang  many  smaller  cooking  utensils,  such 
as  paring  knives,  graters,  spoons,  scissors,  or  can  openers,  are 
all  arranged  to  accommodate  the  housekeeper. 

MATERIALS  : 
12'  poplar. 

l/4  Ib.  6-penny  nails  to  construct  table, 
i  piece  of  sheet  zinc,  12"  X  30",  to  cover  the  top  of  table. 

DIMENSIONS: 

Top:  i  piece    i"  thick  X  18"  wide  X  26"  long. 
Shelf:  i  piece   i"  thick  X  10"  wide  X  32"  long. 
Legs:  4  pieces   il/2"  thick  X  il/2"  wide  X  24"  long. 
Cleats:  4  pieces   i"  thick  X  i"  wide  X  14"  long. 

DIRECTIONS  : 

After  cutting  legs,  nail  on  cleats  even  with  the  top  edge,  measuring  14" 
for  the  bottom  cleat.  Measure  2"  from  the  ends  and  sides  of  the  top 
and  nail  on  the  legs.  Measure  734"  from  the  right-hand  end  and  9" 
from  the  side  and  make  a  hole  8"  in  diameter.  Nail  the  bottom  shelf  at 
an  equal  distance  from  the  bottom  of  the  legs. 

15 


16 


HOME  LABOR  SAVING  DEVICES 


IBS' 


KITCHEN  CONVENIENCES 


17 


WALL  CABINET  FOR  THE  KITCHEN 
(MADE  FROM  DRY  GOODS  BOXES) 

A  comfort  to  the  housewife  is  a  kitchen  cabinet,  containing 
different  compartments  for  spices  and  such  accessories  necessary  in 
cooking.  It  is  made  of  boxes  and  should  be  put  at  some  place 
convenient  to  the  work  table  so  the  woman  will  not  have  to  move 
to  get  these  things  when  preparing  a  meal.  It  surely  fulfils  the 
old  adage,  "A  place  for  everything  and  everything  in  its  place." 

MATERIALS  : 

i  box  of  the  required  dimensions  to  build  the  body. 

12  salt  boxes  used  as  drawers  in  the  compartments. 

l/3  Ib.  8-penny  nails  to  be  used  in  the  construction  of  the  cabinet. 

12  round-head  screws  to  be  used  as  knobs. 

Sandpaper  and  stain. 

DIMENSIONS  : 

Body:  I  box  4^"  deep  X  1314"  wide  X  18^"  long. 
Shelves:  4  pieces  Y%"  thick  X  4^"  wide  X  12%"  long. 
Drawers:  12  salt  boxes,  4"  X  4"  X  4". 


18 


HOME  LABOR  SAVING  DEVICES 


I1 


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DIRECTIONS: 

Remove  the  sides  from  the  box,  making  them  the  exact  length  of  the 
inside  of  the  box.  Draw  a  line  across  the  bottom  and  the  ends  of  the  box 
about  2"  from  the  edge  of  the  sides.  Nail  the  sides  to  the  bottom  and 
the  ends  of  the  box  about  2"  from  the  edge  of  the  sides,  with  outside  faces 
on  pencil  line.  Plane  and  sandpaper  the  edges  until  they  are  smooth. 
Nail  the  shelves  in  at  equal  distances  apart  to  make  four  compartments  of 
equal  size.  Place  three  of  the  salt  boxes  in  each  compartment.  Sand- 
paper, stain,  and  polish. 


KITCHEN  CONVENIENCES  19 

IRONING  BOARD 

This  ironing  board  is  a  very  great  step  saver.  It  is  always 
ready  and  in  place.  It  is  fastened  to  the  wall  at  the  most  con- 
venient place  and  adjusted  to  suit  the  one  who  is  to  use  it.  When 
not  in  use  it  can  be  folded  up  and  hinged  against  the  wall  out  of 
the  way.  The  leg  is  hinged  to  the  ironing  board  and  falls  into 
position  when  the  board  is  lifted.  Skirts  may  be  easily  ironed 
without  changing  the  position  of  the  leg. 

MATERIALS  : 
8'  of  pine. 

3  3"  plain  steel  (butt)  hinges. 
2^  doz.  il/2"  No.  12  flat-head  screws. 
2  yds.  of  white  cotton  flannel. 
zl/2  yds.  unbleached  muslin. 
2  pieces  of  cotton  tape. 

DIMENSIONS  : 

i  piece   i"  thick  X  14"  wide  X  3'  long  to  be  used  as  top  of  board. 

1  piece   i"  thick  X  4"  wide  X  10"  long  to  be  used  as  a  board  strip. 

2  pieces   i"  thick  X  2"  wide  X  4"  long  to  be  fastened  to  the  wall  to  hold 
the  board  in  position. 

I  piece   i"  thick  X  4"  wide  X  14"  long  to  be  used  as  a  wall  strip, 
i  piece    i"  thick  X  4"  wide  X  4'  long    to  be  used  as  brace  for  board, 
i  piece   i"  thick  X  4"  wide  X  8"  long  to  be  used  as  brace  support. 

DIRECTIONS  : 

Plane  the  top  of  the  board  (i"  X  14"  X  3')  on  the  smoothest  side.  With 
a  radius  of  4J^"  lay  out  a  semi-circle  at  the  middle  of  one  end  of  the 
board  as  shown  in  illustration.  This  may  be  done  with  a  compass  or  with 
a  string  and  pencil.  Make  the  other  end  of  the  board  square  with  one  edge. 
Two  feet  from  each  end  make  a  mark  on  each  edge  and  draw  a  straight 
line  from  each  of  these  marks  tangent  to  the  semi-circle.  Saw  along 
these  lines,  smoothing  the  edges  with  the  plane.  Fasten  the  wall  strip 
(i"  X  4"  X  14")  to  this  top  with  2  No.  3  (butt)  hinges.  Bore  3  ^"  holes 
through  the  board  strip  (i"  X  4"  X  10")  and  fasten  it  to  the  bottom  of 
the  top  at  a  distance  of  34"  from  the  wall  strip.  The  brace  (i"  X  4"  X  4') 
is  fastened  to  the  board  strip  with  one  No.  3  (butt)  hinge.  24"  holes  are 
bored  through  the  wall  strip  and  it  is  fastened  at  a  convenient  height 
to  the  wall  with  3  flat-head  screws.  After  boring  3  y2"  holes  through 
the  brace  support  (i"  X  4"  X  8")  it  is  screwed  to  the  wall  with  3  flat- 
head  screws.  Place  this  support  directly  below  the  wall  strip  and  at  such 
a  distance  from  it  to  make  the  board  level  when  the  brace  is  in  position. 
Bore  2  *%"  holes  in  one  of  the  pieces  measuring  i"  X  2"  X  4",  and  one  hole 
through  the  other  piece.  Fold  the  board  up  against  the  wall  and  fasten 


HOME  LABOR  SAVING  DEVICES 

the  piece  with  the  two  holes  to  the  wall  just  a  little  to  one  side  of  the  board 
and  2'  above  the  wall  strip.  The  other  piece  with  one  hole  is  fastened  to 
this  piece  to  hold  the  ironing  board  in  position. 

The  covering  may  be  made  of  cotton  flannel  or  an  old  blanket.  Allow 
2"  on  the  sides  and  the  end  to  be  turned  under  after  it  has  been  cut  the 


shape  of  the  board.  This  must  be  tacked  firmly  and  smoothly  on  the 
board.  The  ironing  sheet  may  be  made  of  unbleached  muslin  or  an  old 
sheet.  This  is  also  cut  the  shape  of  the  board,  allowing  4"  on  the  sides 
and  end  for  the  hem.  Attach  pieces  of  tape  to  the  opposite  sides  about 
10"  apart  to  tie  the  sheet  on  the  board. 


KITCHEN  CONVENIENCES  21 

JELLY  STRAINER  NO.   i 

An  old  chair  is  generally  used  to  hang  the  jelly  bag  over 
while  the  juice  is  dripping.  As  a  substitute  the  device  shown 
in  the  following  illustration  is  suggested  as  being  more  con- 
venient and  sanitary  in  every  way.  It  not  only  provides  a  place 
for  the  bag  to  hang,  but  it  also  has  a  shelf  on  which  the  pan  sits 
to  catch  the  drippings  from  the  bag.  The  legs  are  adjustable; 
hence  it  is  easily  taken  apart  and  kept  in  a  small  space.  This 
makes  the  strainer  especially  convenient  to  the  Canning  Club 
Agent  as  she  goes  her  daily  rounds  teaching  the  housekeepers  the 
art  of  jelly-making.  It  can  be  easily  made  at  home  and  at  a 
little  cost. 

MATERIALS  : 

3'  poplar. 

12  No.  10  screws,  2%",  to  fasten  the  adjustable  legs  to  the  shelves. 

8  No.  9  screws,  i",  to  fasten  braces  to  the  top  of  strainer. 

I  yd.  white  flannel  for  the  jelly  bag. 

i  piece  of  white  tape  to  make  loops  on  bag. 


HOME  LABOR  SAVING  DEVICES 


V 

M 

Opening 
/n  Upper 
Shelf 

v           /. 

1* 

IX 

00 
N 


KITCHEN  CONVENIENCES  23 

DIMENSIONS  : 

Legs:  4  pieces   iy2"  thick  X  i^"  wide  X  31^"  long. 

Shelves:  4  pieces  i"  thick  X  1^2"  wide  X  7"  long  to  make  the  upper  shelf. 

i  piece   i"  thick  X  15"  wide  15"  long  for  lower  shelf. 
Braces:  4  pieces    i"  thick  X  2.^/2"  wide  X  3"  long  to  be  cut  into  4  equal 

triangles. 

DIRECTIONS  : 

Bevel  the  tops  of  all  4  of  the  legs  at  an  angle  of  45°.  Make  the  upper 
shelf  of  the  4  pieces  measuring  i"  X  il/2"  X  7".  Measure  2,^/4"  from 
the  tops  of  the  4  legs  and  screw  the  upper  shelf  to  the  legs  at  these  points. 
A  solid  piece  of  wood  with  a  hole  in  the  center  may  be  used  in  making 
this  shelf.  Support  this  upper  shelf  by  screwing  the  four  triangular 
braces  (i"  X  2^"  X  3")  in  the  corners  of.  the  shelf.  Use  the  8  i-inch 
No.  9  screws  for  this  purpose.  Saw  the  lower  shelf  out  il/2"  on  each 
corner  and  screw  it  on  the  legs  at  a  distance  of  9"  from  the  bottom  of 
the  legs.  Sandpaper  but  do  not  stain.  Take  a  piece  of  flannel  of  the 
desired  size  and  make  the  jelly  bag  in  the  shape  of  a  triangle.  Sew  a 
loop  of  tape  at  each  corner  to  hang  the  bag  over  the  posts. 


24  HOME  LABOR  SAVING  DEVICES 

JELLY  STRAINER,  NO.  2 

While  this  jelly  strainer  is  unique  and  useful  in  its  con- 
struction it  is  not  adjustable.  It  is  made  of  poplar  at  a  minimum 
cost.  Around  the  top  edge  are  arranged  little  brass  hooks. 
These  are  put  at  equal  distances  apart.  At  the  lower  end  of  the 
trough  two  plugs  are  put,  one  above  the  other,  through  which  the 
jelly  juice  flows  out  into  a  pan  placed  beneath  the  plugs. 


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The  jelly  bag  is  made  of  an  oblong  piece  of  flannel  with  ivory 
rings  sewed  around  the  edges  so  as  to  hang  the  bag  on  the  brass 
hooks  around  the  top  of  the  frame. 

MATERIALS  : 

4'  of  poplar. 

4  No.  9  screws,  il/2",  to  fasten  handles  on  the  sides. 
16  No.  10  screws,  2,",  to  fasten  ends  on  the  sides. 

5  No.  10  screws,  1^/4",  to  fasten  the  sides  together  at  the  bottom. 
14  brass  cup  hooks  arranged  around  the  top  edges. 

14  white  ivory  rings  to  be  sewed  on  jelly  bag. 
i  yd.  white  flannel  for  jelly  bag. 


KITCHEN  CONVENIENCES 


DIMENSIONS  : 


Sides:  2  pieces  i" 
Ends:  2  pieces  i' 
Handles:  2  pieces 
Plugs:  2  pieces  i' 


thick  X  12"  wide  X  i$y2"  long, 
thick  X  121/2"  wide  X  171/2"  long, 
i"  thick  X2^"  wide  X  4"  long, 
thick  X  i"  wide  X  3"  long. 


DIRECTIONS  : 

Saw  the  two  end  pieces  according  to  the  illustration.  Measure  6l/2"  from 
the  bottom  of  each  end  and  cut  them  out  %"  to  fit  sides  (i"  thick)  plac- 
ing the  sides  y^'  from  the  outer  side  of  the  end  pieces.  Measure  equal 
spaces  from  each  side  of  the  ends  and  put  the  handles  1^/2"  from  the  top 
edge.  Bore  two  holes  $£"  in  diameter  near  the  bottom  of  the  end  to  fit 
the  plugs.  Bevel  the  two  sides  (i"  X  12"  X  15^2")  at  the  bottom  so  as  to 
make  a  tight  and  neat  joint.  Screw  the  end  pieces  to  the  sides.  Screw 
the  brass  cup  hooks  at  equal  distances  apart  around  the  top  edge  of  the 
strainer. 


26  HOME  LABOR  SAVING  DEVICES 

DISH  DRAINER 

The  work  of  dish-washing  is  greatly  reduced  by  the  use  of  a 
dish  drainer.  The  dishes  are  carefully  washed  and  arranged  in 
the  drainer,  and  boiling  water  poured  over  them.  When  they 
are  dry,  they  can  be  put  away  or  allowed  to  stand  with  a  clean 
cloth  thrown  over  them  until  ready  to  use. 

This  dish  drainer  resembles  a  box  in  shape,  put  on  legs,  with 
slats  placed  inside  at  equal  distances  apart,  making  the  compart- 
ments to  hold  the  dishes.  The  space  in  front  is  made  a  little 
larger  to  accommodate  the  irregular  dishes.  An  experienced 
housewife  will  know  that  glassware  and  silverware  cannot  be 
dried  by  this  method.  A  hole  is  made  in  one  corner  of  the 
drainer  through  which  the  water  drains  off  into  a  pail  which  is 
kept  under  the  corner. 

MATERIALS  : 

16'  of  white  pine. 

y2  lb.  of  4-penny  nails  for  nailing  slats  in  box. 

y2  lb.  of  8-penny  nails  for  nailing  box  on  the  legs. 

4^/2   of  sheet  zinc  to  cover  the  inside  of  drainer. 

4"  of  half-galvanized  pipe  for  drainage  tube. 

i  drainage  pail. 

Sandpaper. 

i  can  of  white  paint. 

i  can  of  white  enamel. 

DIMENSIONS  : 

Bottom:  i  piece  i"  thick  X  24"  wide  X  26"  long. 
Sides:  2  pieces  i"  thick  X  8"  wide  X  26"  long. 

2  pieces  i"  thick  X  8"  wide  X  24"  long. 
Legs:  4  pieces  i"  thick  X  4"  wide  X  36"  long,  for  back  legs. 

4  pieces  i"  thick  X  4"  wide  X  35"  long,  for  front  legs. 
Slats:  2  pieces  J4"  thick  X  i"  wide  X  24"  long. 

6  pieces  Y4"  thick  X  i"  wide  X  26"  long. 

DIRECTIONS  : 

Make  a  pine  box  which  is  8"  deep  and  24"  X  26"  long.  The  joints  must 
be  laid  in  white  lead  in  order  to  make  the  drainer  water  tight.  Nail  2 
slats  Y^"  thick  X  i"  wide  X  24"  long  down  flat  from  the  front  to  the 
back  of  the  box  at  the  outer  edge.  These  are  used  as  supports  for  the 
other  crosswise  slats  and  also  allow  the  water  to  run  under  the  slats. 


KITCHEN  CONVENIENCES  27 

Nail  4  slats  on  these  supports,  beginning  3%"  from  the  back  of  the  box 
and  making  a  distance  of  3%"  between  each  slat.  This  will  leave  a  9" 
space  in  front  of  the  box  for  the  irregular  dishes.  The  front  legs  are 
made  of  the  four  pieces  i"  thick  X  4"  wide  X  35"  long,  and  the  back 


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legs  are  i"  thick  X  4"  wide  X  36"  deep.  This  slant  provides  for  the 
drainage.  The  drainer  should  be  tipped  a  little  to  the  corner  in  which 
the  drain  pipe  is  placed.  If  zinc  is  to  be  used  for  lining,  it  must  be  done 
before  the  slats  are  put  into  the  box. 


£8  HOME  LABOR  SAVING  DEVICES 

DISH  RACK 

A  rack  made  of  poplar,  with  several  compartments  to  accom- 
modate dishes  of  different  sizes. 

The  large  platters  are  put  in  the  largest  upright  spaces,  the 
dinner  plates  being  arranged  in  the  middle-sized  spaces,  with  the 
smaller  plates  and  saucers  in  the  top  spaces.  It  may  be  placed 
at  a  convenient  place  in  the  kitchen  or  dining  room  so  as  to  save 
the  housekeeper  unnecessary  steps.  Mortise  and  tenon  joints 
will  make  a  more  substantial  rack  but  these  are  not  necessary. 
The  parts  may  be  nailed  together.  After  joining  the  parts 
together,  sandpaper,  paint  white  and  enamel. 

MATERIALS  : 

&/*   poplar. 

12  No.  6  nails  to  nail  on  the  top. 

45  No.  44  box  nails  for  nailing  on  upright  pieces. 

50  No.  16  wire  brads,  24"»  for  nailing  tenons  in  mortise. 

2  No.  9  screws,  il/2",  to  screw  the  base  on  the  rack. 

Sandpaper  for  dressing  the  rack. 

i  pt.  white  paint. 

i  pt.  enamel. 

DIMENSIONS: 

Top:  i  piece   24"  thick  X  4^"  wide  X  33"  long. 

2  pieces   24"  thick  X  \y2"  wide  X  30"  long. 
Bottom:  2  pieces   24"  thick  X  il/2"  wide  X  30"  long. 

1  piece  i"  thick  X  2l/2"  wide  X  12"  long  for  base. 
Middle:  2  pieces   24"  thick  X  \y2"  wide  X  21"  long. 
Ends:  2  pieces  £4"  thick  X  \y2"  wide  X  24"  long. 

Crosspieces:  2  pieces   24"  thick  X  il/2"  wide  X  3"  long  to  be  used  as  top 
of  rack. 

2  pieces  24"  thick  X  3"  wide  X  3"  long  to  be  used  as  bottom  of  rack. 
Upright  pieces:   16  pieces    y2"  thick  X  l/2"  wide  X  26"  long  to  be  used 

as  side  pieces  8  on  each  side. 

2  pieces  24"  thick  X  \y2"  wide  X  20^"  long. 

DIRECTIONS: 

Mortise  the  two  end  pieces  J4",  to  fit  tenon.  Nail  the  two  crosspieces, 
measuring  (24"  *  i^"  X  3")  to  them.  Make  }4"  mortises  on  the  two 
top  pieces  (24"  x  3"  x  3")-  These  mortises  are  made  3"  from  the  end 
and  the  two  pieces  nailed  to  crosspieces.  Screw  on  the  bottom  board  (i" 


KITCHEN  CONVENIENCES 


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30  HOME  LABOR  SAVING  DEVICES 

X  2^"  X  12")  with  il/2"  No.  9  screws.  Mortise  the  4  top  and  bottom 
pieces  (&"  X  \y2"  X  30")  y2"  from  the  top  and  bottom  and  nail  them 
lengthwise  on  the  rack.  The  two  middle  pieces  (34"  X  \y2"  X  21")  are 
mortised  and  nailed  11"  from  the  top  edge  of  the  bottom  piece.  The 
upright  pieces  (&"  X  \y2"  X  20^")  are  nailed  9"  from  the  left  side. 
Nail  the  eight  upright  pieces  (J/2"  X  y2"  X  26")  on  each  side  with  No.  4 
box  nails.  The  top  piece  (#"  X  4^"  X  33")  is  nailed  on  the  top  of  the 
rack.  Sandpaper,  paint  and  enamel. 


KITCHEN  CONVENIENCES  31 

COAL  BOX 

The  construction  of  this  box  is  both  simple  and  convenient, 
and  it  requires  little  space  in  the  room  to  accommodate  it.  There 
are  four  compartments  in  it.  The  back  is  divided  equally  to 
provide  places  for  the  kindling  and  paper;  the  front  space  is 
used  for  coal,  and  while  it  makes  it  more  durable  to  line  it  with 
metal,  this  is  not  necessary.  There  is  a  narrow  opening  in  the 
front  in  which  the  cleaning  materials  are  kept — polish,  brush, 
and  stove  rags.  Stain  or  paint  will  make  the  coal  box  more 
attractive. 

MATERIALS  : 

27^'  of  poplar. 

3  pairs  of  il/2"  (butt)  hinges. 

24  24"  No.  8  screws  for  hinges. 

2  Ibs.  5-penny  box  nails. 

3  screen  door  handles, 
i  iron  door  button. 

4  castors. 

5  Ibs.  sheet  metal. 

DIMENSIONS  : 

Top:  i  piece   i"  thick  X  i'  gfa"  wide  X  2'  il/2"  long  to  be  used  as  level 

top. 

Front:  i  piece  i"  thick  X  i'  7"  wide  X  2'  il/2"  long  for  the  slanting  front. 
Bottom:  i  piece   i"  thick  X  i'  11^2"  wide  X  2'  10"  long. 
Back:  i  piece   i"  thick  X  2'  i"  wide  X  i'  ny2"  long  to  be  used  as  the 

back  of  the  box. 

Ends:  2  pieces   i"  thick  X  2'  2"  wide  X  3'  long. 
Partitions:  i  piece  i"  thick  X  21"  wide  X  i'  n^"  long  to  be  used  as  the 

partition  in  the  back. 

i  piece  i"  thick  X  2'  2"  wide  X  i'  \\y2"  long  to  be  used  as  the  slanting 

partition  in  the  bottom  of  the  coal  box. 
Supports:  i  piece   l/2"  thick  X  y2"  wide  X  i'  11^2"  long  to  be  used  as  a 

support  at  the  back  of  the  opening  in  the  box  to  hojd  door  in  place. 
Drawer:  i  piece   i"  thick  X  i'  \y2"  wide  X  2'  \y2"  long  for  the  front  of 

the  drawer. 

i  piece  i"  thick  X  5"  wide  X  i'  11^"  long  for  the  back  of  the  drawer. 

i  piece  i"  thick  X  10"  wide  X  i'  uy2"  for  the  top  of  the  drawer. 

DIRECTIONS  : 

Measure  i'  9^"  from  the  back  of  the  two  end  pieces  (i"  X  2' 2"  X  3'). 
Cut  the  corners  off  from  this  point  to  make  a  slant  which  will  fit  the  door 
i'  7"  long.  Nail  the  back  (i"  X  i'  n^"  X  2'  i")  to  the  two  end  pieces  at 


HOME  LABOR  SAVING  DEVICES 


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KITCHEN  CONVENIENCES 


33 


the  straight  edge.  The  bottom  piece  (i"  X  i'  iil/2"  X  2'  10")  is  then 
nailed  to  the  back  and  sides.  Cut  out  a  4"  X  i'  \\y2"  opening  in  the  front 
piece  (i"  X  i'  nl/2"  X  2'  il/2"}  for  the  drawer  and  then  nail  the  front  to 
the  sides  and  bottom.  Take  the  piece  which  has  been  cut  out  and  hinge 
it  to  the  opening  as  shown  in  the  illustration.  Nail  the  back  and  top 
partitions  in  this  opening  before  the  slanting  partition  which  divides  this 
division  from  the  coal  bin  is  put  in.  Measure  9"  from  the  back  of  the 
coal  box  and  put  the  straight  partition  (i"  X  21"  X  i'  11^2")  in  by  nail- 
ing it  to  the  bottom  and  sides  of  the  coal  box.  Then  the  slanting  parti- 
tion (i"  X  2'  2"  X  i'  nl/2")  is  nailed  to  the  bottom  and  front  edge  of  the 
box  as  shown  in  the  illustration.  Cut  an  opening  (9"  X  i'  nl/2")  in  the  top 
(i"  X  i'  9^4"  X  2'  il/2r')  and  then  nail  top  on  the  box,  using  the  piece  which 
is  cut  out  for  the  door  to  the  opening.  Hinge  this  piece  on  with  one  pair 
of  \Y2"  (butt)  hinges.  The  door  support  (y2"  X  y2"  X  i'  11^")  is 


nailed  on  the  inside  of  the  back  of  the  box.  Bevel  the  piece  (i"  X  i'  7" 
X  2'  1^2")  for  the  slanting  door.  It  must  fit  each  edge  as  shown  in  the 
illustration.  Hinge  this  door  at  the  upper  edge  of  the  top  with  one  pair 
of  il/2"  (butt)  hinges.  One  screen  door  handle  is  put  on  each  opening  to 
lift  them.  The  four  castors  are  placed  on  the  bottom  of  each  corner  of 
the  box  to  make  it  more  easily  moved  about.  Stain  or  paint  the  coal  box. 


34  HOME  LABOR  SAVING  DEVICES 

A  HOME-MADE  COOK  STOVE  DRIER 

This  apparatus  is  designed  to  use  on  a  wood  or  coal  stove, 
an  oil  stove,  or  a  gas  range.  It  can  be  easily  and  inexpensively 
made  at  home. 

MATERIALS  : 

12,'  of  poplar  for  the  frame. 

14  Ibs.  black  sheet  steel,  27  gauge,  to  cover  frame. 

9  sq.  ft.  galvanized  wire  cloth  about  Y^"  mesh  for  shelves. 

y2  Ib.  4-penny  nails. 

1  hook  and  eye  to  fasten  door. 

2  prs.  small  hinges  for  the  door. 

DIMENSIONS  : 

Frame:  4  pieces  i%"  X  iY4"  X  23". 
Sides:  4  pieces  i%"  X  i%"  X  21". 
Front:  2  pieces  i%"  X  i*4"  X  n". 
Back:  2  pieces  i%"  X  i%"  X  n". 
Supports:  6  pieces  i"  X  2*4"  X  23^". 
Trayj;  12  pieces  ^"  X  ^"  X  20^". 
12  pieces  y4"  X  #"  X  ioj£". 

DIRECTIONS  : 

The  frame  consists  of  four  wooden  posts  (ij4"  X  iJ4"  X  23")  ;  four 
side  pieces  (i%"  X  i^"  X  21")  ;  two  front  pieces  (i%"  X  i%"  X  11")  ; 
and  two  back  pieces  (lj£"  X  lj£"  X  il").  To  the  posts  are  lightly 
nailed  on  each  side  six  strips  (i"X2^4"  X  23^")-  These  pieces  serve 
as  supports  for  the  drying  racks.  The  corners  are  notched  out  as  in- 
dicated in  the  drawing  to  allow  the  strips  to  extend  out  to  the  outer  wall 
of  the  drier. 

For  each  side  use  a  sheet  of  light  weight  sheet  steel  (2^/2"  X  23")  ;  for 
the  back  a  sheet  (i3^"X23");  for  the  top  a  sheet  (13^"  X  23^"). 
In  the  top  piece  an  opening  about  3"  X  10"  is  cut  about  four  inches  from 
the  back  edge  to  permit  the  escape  of  moist  air.  It  may  be  found  at 
times  that  this  ventilating  opening  is  too  large.  Then  it  may  be  partially 
closed  by  placing  over  it  a  tin  pan  or  other  vessel. 

For  the  bottom  a  sheet  13^"  X  23^2"  is  used.  This  sheet  is  thoroughly 
perforated  with  holes  to  admit  the  warm  air.  Another  piece  of  sheet 
steel  (A  on  the  drawing)  (7^/2"  X  1734")  is  provided  to  make  the  heat 
spread  more  evenly.  This  piece  rests  on  wires  above  the  bottom  of  the 
drier.  These  wires  are  put  through  small  holes  punched  in  the  side 
sheets  (see  B  on  drawing). 

The  door  is  made  of  heavier  gauge  sheet  steel  (13^"  X23"). 

The  legs  are  made  of  four  pieces  of  sheet  steel  bent  on  an  angle  as  indi- 
cated in  the  drawing. 


KITCHEN  CONVENIENCES  35 

All  the  sheet  steel  parts  may  be  tacked    on  the  frame  but  the  door,  which  is 

secured  by  hinges. 

The  frames  of  the  six  trays  are  made  of  24"  wood  10^2"  wide  and  20l/2"  long. 
Make   the   bottom   of   the   trays   of    wire    cloth    (20^2"  X  10^")-     This    is 

tacked  on  the  underside  of  the  frame  of  the  trays. 

By  referring  to  the  drawing  it  will  be  observed  that  the  bottom 
tray  is  shoved  back  as  far  as  it  will  go;  the  next  tray  above  is 
pulled  as  far  front  as  the  door  will  admit ;  the  next  tray  is  shoved 
back  and  so  on  with  each  tray  shoving  one  to  the  back  and  pulling 
the  other  to  the  front.  The  object  of  this  arrangement  is  to  allow 
the  heat  to  pass  over  and  around  the  ends  which  causes  a  more 
rapid  movement  of  the  air  current.  This  is  more  important  in 
drying  than  the  heat. 

It  may  be  necessary  to  shift  the  trays  by  putting  the  top  one  on 
the  bottom  and  the  bottom  one  on  the  top  during  the  drying  proc- 
ess so  as  to  dry  the  products  more  uniformly. 


36 


HOME  LABOR-SAVING  DEVICES 


23"- 


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»-«--  «--  1 


KITCHEN  CONVENIENCES 

WOOD  BOX 


37 


(MADE  FROM  DRY  GOODS  BOXES) 

What  an  unsightly  spectacle  does  a  wood  pile  by  the  stove, 
on  the  porch,  or  in  the  corner  of  the  room  present!  It  is  a  place 
of  refuge  for  all  trash,  such  as  old  papers  and  rags.  This  not 
only  adds  to  the  untidiness  of  the  room  or  porch,  but  it  makes 


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extra  work  for  the  already  overworked  woman.  The  wood  box 
made  of  old  dry  goods  boxes  should  appeal  strongly  to  the  home. 
It  can  be  kept  by  the  stove  or  on  the  porch  or  in  some  convenient 
place  to  be  reached,  and  to  be  filled  by  the  man  before  he  goes  to 
his  daily  work.  A  lid  will  not  only  cover  up  the  contents  of  the 
box,  but  it  will  serve  as  a  comfortable  seat  to  be  used  while 
preparing  the  meal. 


38  HOME  LABOR  SAVING  DEVICES 

MATERIALS  : 

i  packing  box,  24"  deep  X  23^"  wide  X  32"  long. 
I  pair  2"  (butt)  hinges  with  $/%'  screws  to  fasten  on  top. 
}4  lb.  8-penny  nails  to  make  box. 
Sandpaper  and  stain. 

DIMENSIONS  : 

Body:  I  box  24"  deep  X  23^"  wide  X  32"  long. 
Top:  i  piece  £4"  thick  X  18"  wide  X  32"  long. 
Legs:  4  pieces  34"  thick  X  2"  wide  X  28^"  long. 

4  pieces  &"  thick  X  2^/2"  wide  X  28^"  long. 
Cleats:  2  pieces  l/2"  thick  X  3"  wide  X  15"  long. 
Hinge  Strip:  i  piece  l/2"  thick  X  3"  wide  X  29"  long. 

DIRECTIONS  : 

Make  the  legs  4"  longer  than  the  depth  of  the  box  after  the  cover  has  been 
removed,  and  nail  them  on  the  box.  Make  the  cover  2"  wider  and  2" 
longer  than  the  outside  length  and  width  of  the  box.  Place  each  cleat 
about  3"  from  the  end  of  the  cover  and  nail  on  the  cover.  Hinges  are 
put  5"  from  each  end  of  the  box.  Sandpaper,  stain  and  polish. 


&tel!v:£^ 


KITCHEN  CONVENIENCES  39 

FIRELESS  COOKER 

There  are  many  advantages  in  having  a  fireless  cooker  in  the 
home.  It  not  only  saves  time  and  fuel  but  keeps  the  woman  from 
standing  over  the  hot  fire,  and  there  are  many  foods  that  are 
better  when  cooked  at  a  lower  temperature.  The  principle  of 
the  fireless  cooker  is  to  retain  the  heat  by  boiling  the  food  in  a 
vessel  with  a  tight  cover  and  placing  it  in  the  cooker  in  the  same 
vessel,  thus  keeping  the  heat  from  escaping.  An  outside  con- 
tainer may  be  made  to  accommodate  one  or  more  cooking  vessels. 
A  cheap  but  efficient  fireless  cooker  may  be  made  of  a  tightly  built 
wooden  box>  a  barrel,  or  a  tin  lard  can  as  shown  in  the  illustration. 
If  the  outside  container  is  of  wood  it  must  be  lined  on  the  inside 
with  asbestos  or  heavy  paper  to  keep  out  the  air. 

The  nest  may  be  a  galvanized  or  tin  bucket  of  a  size  which 
will  admit  of  three  inches  of  packing  between  the  outside  con- 
tainer and  the  nest.  The  sides  and  bottom  of  the  nest  are  covered 
with  asbestos  to  prevent  the  scotching  or  the  burning  of  the 
packing. 

The  packing  must  be  of  some  material  through  which  the  heat 
cannot  easily  escape.  Cork,  sawdust,  excelsior,  hay,  or  shredded 
newspaper  may  be  used  to  an  advantage.  Three  inches  of  this 
packing  is  put  tightly  in  the  bottom  of  the  outside  container  and 
around  the  sides  to  fill  in  the  space  between  the  outside  container 
and  the  nest. 

A  four-inch  space  is  left  at  the  top  of  the  fireless  qooker  in 
which  a  cushion  made  of  unbleached  cotton  or  some  other  ma- 
terjal  is  stuffed  with  the  packing  and  placed  to  make  the  cooker 
airtight.  Cut  two  circles  out  of  the  unbleached  cotton  and  a 
three-inch  straight  piece  to  join  the  circles  together.  A  hot  soap- 
stone,  stove  plate  or  brick  is  placed  in  the  bottom  of  the  nest  before 
the  food  vessel  is  placed  in  the  fireless  cooker.  The  food  vessel 
may  be  any  cooking  utensil  with  a  top  that  will  fit  in  the  nest 
after  the  soapstone  has  been  put  in.  Cut  a  circle  of  tin  or  card- 
board to  fit  top  of  inside  of  cooker  with  an  opening  the  size  of 
the  nest.  This  gives  a  good  finish  to  the  top  of  the  fireless  cooker 
and  preserves  the  packing. 


40 


HOME  LABOR  SAVING  DEVICES 


12.: 


-Hi"- 


+-3 


KITCHEN  CONVENIENCES 


41 


MATERIALS  : 

i  lard  can  18"   X  24". 

i  lard  can  12"  X  15". 

4  Ibs.  excelsior. 

i  yd.  asbestos. 

Y^  yd.  unbleached  cotton. 

i  soapstone. 

i  sheet  cardboard. 

DIMENSIONS  : 

Outside  Container:  18"  X  24". 

Nest:  12"  X  15". 

Cooking  Vessel:  115-2"  X  13". 

DIRECTIONS  : 

Place  3"  of  excelsior  in  the  bottom  of -the  outside  container  (18"  X  24") 
and  pack  it  down  tightly.  Cover  the  bottom  and  sides  of  the  nest  (12" 
X  15")  with  asbestos.  Then  place  nest  in  the  outside  container  hold- 
ing it  in  place  while  3"  of  packing  is  put  tightly  between  the  outside 
container  and  nest.  Cut  the  cardboard  circle  to  fit  inside  of  the  top  of 
outside  container  with  an  opening  to  fit  the  top  of  the  nest  and  put  on 
top  to  give  a  good  finish  and  to  preserve  the  packing.  Make  the  cushion 
for  the  top  of  the  unbleached  cotton  by  cutting  two  circles  with  3"  strip 
to  join  them  together.  Then  pack  the  cushion  tightly  with  the  same 
packing.  Enamel  the  cooker. 


HOME  LABOR  SAVING  DEVICES 


Any  convenient  box  may  be  used  and  any  can  of  convenient  size,  such  as  a  lard  can,  etc.  The 
cans  should  be  wrapped  with  about  4  or  5  layers  of  asbestos  paper.  The  space  around  the  cans  should 
be  at  least  2  inches,  and  filled  with  straw  or  wood  shavings,  etc.  The  top  of  the  cans  should  be  cov- 
ered with  a  pad  filled  with  straw  or  shavings,  etc. 


CHAPTER  II 

DINING-ROOM  CONVENIENCES 

ROLLER  TRAY  WAGON 

An  efficient  and  convenient  table  placed  on  casters  and  wheels 
and  comprising  a  china  closet,  drawer  for  silverware,  serving 
table,  and  roller  tray  all  in  one.  This  device  is  invaluable  to  the 
housekeeper  who  does  her  own  work.  It  saves  her  many  steps 
in  the  preparation  and  the  serving  of  her  meals.  While  she  is 
entertaining  at  a  luncheon,  it  takes  the  place  of  a  maid,  since  the 
refreshments  can  be  prepared,  arranged  on  the  wagon,  and  rolled 
out  at  the  appointed  time.  The  prices  of  a  tea  wagon  made  in 
wicker  or  some  expensive  wood  are  very  high,  but  one  like  the 
following  illustration  can  be  made  at  a  nominal  cost,  or  it  can  be 
made  of  dry  goods  boxes  for  even  less. 

MATERIALS  : 

26'  white  pine. 

i  piece  of  jack  chain  No.  14,  18"  long,  to  support  top. 

1  pair  iy2"  (butt)  hinges  to  hold  top. 
12  No.  5  screws,  £4",  to  fasten  hinges. 
y2  Ib.  5-penny  box  nails. 

2  brass  hand  bolts  to  fasten  on  drawer. 

8  No.  10  screws,  2l/2",  to  fasten  legs  to  bottom  shelf. 
2  furniture  casters  to  put  on  legs. 
2  swivel  or  baby  carriage  wheels. 

DIMENSIONS  : 

Top:  i  piece  i"  thick  X  16^"  wide  X  26^"  long. 

Sides:  2  pieces  i"  thick  X  5"  wide  X  33^"  long,  for  front  and  back  of 

body. 

Ends:  2  pieces  i"  thick  X  5"  wide  X  13"  long,  for  top  of  frame. 
Handles:  2  pieces  i"  thick  X  i"  wide  X  15"  long. 
Bottom:  i  piece  i"  thick  X  13"  wide  X  24^"  long. 
Legs:  4  pieces  il/2"  thick  X  il/2"  wide  X  32"  long. 
Ends:  2  pieces  i"  thick  X  3^"  wide  X  12"  long,  allowing  i"  on  each  end 

for  tenon. 
Drawer:  i  piece  i"  thick  X  il/2"  wide   X  23^"  long,  for  foundation  of 

drawer, 

48 


44 


HOME  LABOR  SAVING  DEVICES 


Cleats:  2  pieces  i"  thick  X  i"  wide  X  14"  long,  to  support  the  drawer, 
i  piece  i"  thick  X  2^"  wide  X  23^"  long,  to  be  used  as  front  to  drawer, 

1  piece  y2"  thick  X  2^"  wide  X  23^"  long,  to  be  used  as  back  of  drawer. 

2  pieces  y2"  thick  X  2^"  wide  X  13^"  long,  to  be  used  as  side  of  drawer, 
i  piece  y2"  thick  X  15"  wide  X  23^"  long,  to  be  used  as  bottom  of 
drawer. 

i  piece  y2"  thick  X  2^"  wide  X  3^"  long,  to  be  used  as  partition  in 
drawer. 


L 


Shelf:  i  piece  i"  thick  X  15"  wide  X  26^"  long,  to  be  used  as  bottom  of 
shelf. 

Braces:  2  pieces  i"  thick  X  \y2"  wide  X  12"  long,  to  support  ends  of 

shelf. 
Brackets:  2  pieces  i"  thick  X  8"  wide  X  8"  long,  to  be  used  as  a  support 

for  wheel. 


Roller  tray  wagon,  including  compartment  for  china  and  a  drawer  for  silver  and  linen 


DINING  ROOM  CONVENIENCES  45 

DIRECTIONS  : 

Take  the  2  sides  (i"  X  5"  X  33^")  and  round  each  end  in  the  shape  of  a 
half  circle,  boring  a  i"  hole  in  each  end  of  side  piece  to  hold  handles 
(i"  X  i"  X  15").  Fit  bottom  on  inside  of  box  and  nail  it.  Mortise  3^2" 
from  the  top  of  the  legs  to  fit  cross  pieces,  i"  X  3^"  X  12".  Make  a 
*4"  mortise  on  the  legs  9"  from  the  bottom  for  the  support  of  the  bottom 
shelf.  Measure  2.^/2"  from  the  top  of  the  leg  to  put  tenon  for  the  front 
drawer  support.  Construct  the  opposite  end  of  the  table  in  the  same  way. 
The  upper  top  of  table,  showing  the  lid  and  handle,  should  be  fastened 
to  top  after  the  table  is  made.  In  making  the  frame  for  the  drawer,  2.^/2" 
deep  X  135^"  wide  X  23^"  long,  nail  the  front  and  back  to  the  sides. 
Then  nail  the  bottom  of  the  drawer  to  the  inside  of  this  frame  with 
one  partition  nailed  crosswise  the  center  of  the  drawer.  Place  handles 
on  the  front  of  the  drawer  about  3"  from  each  end.  Screw  on  the  2 
pieces  placed  9"  from  bottom  of  the  leg,  with  2^2"  No.  10  screwsa  Cut 
the  bottom  shelf  out  il/2ff  at  each  corner,  fit  to  the  legs,  and  screw.  This 
shelf  must  be  stationary.  Brackets,  i"  X  8"  X  8",  are  screwed  on  at  one 
end  of  the  shelf  to  be  used  as  supports  to  which  the  wheels  are  fastened. 
The  drawer  may  be  used  for  silverware  and  to  keep  the  linen.  The 
side  used  for  silverware  should  be  lined  with  felt  or  outing.  The  table 
should  be  well  dressed  by  sandpapering,  staining,  and  polishing  it.  Do  not 
varnish  it  because  this  does  not  make  so  attractive  a  table  as  the  mission 
stain. 


46  HOME  LABOR  SAVING  DEVICES 

SIDEBOARD 
(MADE  OF  DRY  GOODS  BOXES) 

A  unique  article  made  of  dry  goods  boxes,  which  may  be  used 
in  the  dining  room  as  a  sideboard  or  in  the  kitchen  as  a  cupboard. 
Two  dry  goods  boxes  are  joined  together  to  make  the  lower 
section,  one  end  on  each  box  being  removed  to  be  used  as  shelves 
in  the  sideboard.  The  upper  section  with  its  three  shelves  is 
made  from  pieces  of  other  boxes.  On  two  of  the  shelves  brass 
hooks  are  arranged  at  equal  distances  apart,  on  which  the  cups 
hang.  A  groove  may  be  made  under  the  lower  shelf  and  on  the 
top  shelf,  in  which  the  small  plates  and  saucers  rest.  The  two 
drawers,  made  according  to  dimensions  and  out  of  pieces  of 
boxes,  can  be  lined  with  felt  or  outing  flannel  to  hold  the  silver- 
ware. Attractive  curtains  may  be  made  of  some  suitable  ma- 
terial and  hung  in  front  of  the  upper  section.  This  is  especially 
an  interesting  problem  for  boys  in  a  school  to  work  out. 


MATERIALS  : 

3  large  boxes  for  lower  and  upper  sections  of  sideboard. 

3  small  boxes  to  be  used  for  drawers. 

2  pairs  15^2"  (butt)  hinges  to  fasten  doors. 

y2  Ib.  6-penny  nails  to  build  sideboard. 

2  metal  knobs  to  be  used  on  lower  doors. 

24  brass  cup  and  saucer  hooks. 

2  hand  bolts  to  be  used  on  front  of  drawers. 

Sandpaper  and  stain. 

DIMENSIONS  :  Lower  Section : 

Body:  2  boxes  13"  deep  X  12^"  wide  X  26"  long. 
Shelves:  2  pieces  i"  thick  X  12"  wide  X  24"  long. 

Cleats:  4  pieces  y2"  thick  X  $4"  wide  X  12"  long,  to  be  used  under  the 
shelves. 

Doors:  4  pieces  $4"  thick  X  2"  wide  X  26"  long,  to  be  used  for  upright 
pieces. 

4  pieces  W  thick  X  2"  wide  X  8"  long,  to  be  used  as  crosspieces. 
2  pieces  Y2"  thick  X  9"  wide  X  23"  long,  to  be  used»as  panels. 

Legs:  4  pieces  Y2"  thick  X  2^"  wide  X  36"  long. 
4  pieces  ^"  thick  X  2^"  wide  X  36"  long. 


DINING  ROOM  CONVENIENCES 


47 


/- 


K- -\ 


ill 


48 


HOME  LABOR  SAVING  DEVICES 


Upper  Section : 

Body:  i  box  5"  deep  X  18"  wide  X  26"  long. 

2  small  boxes  5"  deep  X  12"  wide  X  18"  long. 
Drawer:  i  box  5"  deep  X  18"  wide  X  24"  long. 

DIRECTIONS  : 

Boxes  which  can  be  most  easily  converted  into  the  desired  sections  must 
be  selected.  Two  boxes  (13"  X  12^"  X  26")  are  joined  together  to 
form  the  body  of  the  lower  section  of  the  sideboard.  Remove  the  ends 
of  the  boxes,  to  be  used  as  shelves,  using  the  side  of  a  larger  box  for 
the  top  of  this  section.  The  shelves  are  fastened  in  by  4  cleats  (Y2"  X 
y±'  X  12")  nailed  crosswise  the  partition  and  the  sides  of  the  section. 
Four  strips  (l/2"  X  2^"  X  36")  and  four  strips  (l/2"  X  2^/4"  X  36")  are 
taken  from  the  third  box  to  make  the  legs  of  the  cabinet.  The  doors  are 
fastened  on  with  hinges,  using  two  metal  knobs  in  front  of  the  doors  to 
open  them.  The  foundation  of  the  upper  section  is  made  of  a  box  (5" 
deep  X  18"  X  26").  The  three  crosspieces  used  as  shelves  are  made  from 
the  two  small  boxes  (5"  X  12"  X  18").  Make  the  drawer  of  a  box 
(5"  X  1 8"  X  24"),  putting  a  partition  through  the  center  of  the  box  and 
on  the  inside  if  two  drawers  be  desired.  Place  two  hand  bolts  on  the 
front  of  the  drawer.  Sandpaper,  stain,  and  polish  the  sideboard. 


DINING  ROOM  CONVENIENCES 

SCREEN 


49 


A  screen  is  useful  in  many  ways  in  the  home.  It  adds  a 
great  deal  to  the  appearance  of  a  bedroom.  By  putting  it 
around  the  bed  one  may  often  avoid  draughts.  In  the  dining 


t«j 

.1 
sf 


2.' 


Jo/ni: 


room  it  is  indispensable  in  the  front  of  a  serving  table  while 
the  meal  is  going  on.  The  illustration  above  shows  a  two- 
panelled  screen  which  may  be  easily  made  in  the  home,  or  it 
furnishes  good  material  for  a  woodwork  problem  to  be  used  in 

4 


50  HOME  LABOR  SAVING  DEVICES 

the  school.  It  is  made  of  oak  and  covered  with  burlap.  By 
adding  to  the  number  of  pieces  the  third  panel  may  be  made 
with  ease. 

MATERIALS  : 

3  feet  of  oak. 

J4  lb.  8-penny  nails  to  be  used  in  making  frame. 

3  i"  (butt)  hinges,  with  screws,  to  join  panels  together. 

i  box  of  brass-headed  tacks  to  fasten  burlap  to  frame. 

Sandpaper  and  stain. 

3l/2  yds.  burlap  to  cover  panels. 

DIMENSIONS  : 

Frame:  4  pieces  i"  thick  X  i"  wide  X  5'  long,  to  be  used  for  upright 
pieces. 
6  pieces  i"  thick  X  i"  wide  X  2'  long,  to  be  used  for  crosspieces. 

DIRECTIONS  : 

Measure  and  saw  the  pieces  according  to  required  dimensions.  Cut  the 
joints  and  nail  the  three  crosspieces  to  the  two  upright  pieces.  Make  the 
other  panel  in  the  same  way  and  join  the  two  together  with  the  three 
hinges.  Sandpaper,  stain,  and  polish  the  frame.  After  it  has  dried 
thoroughly,  cover  it  with  the  burlap  on  the  outside,  tacking  this  on  with 
the  brass-headed  tacks. 


CHAPTER  III 
PORCH  EQUIPMENT 

ICELESS  REFRIGERATOR  NO.  i 

Country  homes  without  ice  houses  and  too  far  from  town  to 
have  access  to  manufactured  ice  may  have  an  iceless  refrigerator 
as  a  good  substitute.  This  convenience  comprises  a  simple  wooden 
frame  with  a  covering  of  canton  flannel,  burlap,  Indian-head 
cloth  or  linen  crash  made  to  fit  so  that  little  air  is  admitted  into  it. 
Wicks  made  of  the  same  material  as  the  cover  are  tacked  on  top 
of  each  side  of  the  cover  and  extend  over  into  the  pan  of  water 
sitting  on  top  of  the  frame.  This  water  is  taken  up  by  the  wicks 
and  carried  down  on  the  sides  of  the  cover  by  capillary  attraction 
when  evaporation  takes  place,  drawing  the  heat  from  the  inside 
and  lowering  the  temperature.  The  more  rapid  the  evaporation, 
the  lower  the  temperature.  Tests  have  shown  that  if  the  refrig- 
erator is  kept  in  a  place  where  the  air  circulates  around  it  freely, 
a  temperature  of  50  degrees  Fahrenheit  may  be  obtained. 

MATERIALS  : 

40'  of  white  pine. 

i  pair  of  iy2"  (butt)  hinges  to  fasten  the  door. 

i  2"  gate  hook  to  close  screen  door. 

l/2  lb.  5-penny  nails  to  build  frame. 

3l/2  yds.  wire  screening  to  cover  frame. 

4  sq.  ft.  sheet  zinc  to  make  shelves. 
I  pt.  white  paint. 

i  can  white  enamel. 

i  square  pan  for  top  of  refrigerator. 

1  large  pan  for  bottom. 
Sandpaper. 

2  cards  of  snap  hooks  and  eyes  to  put  on  cover. 

5  yds.  white  canton  flannel. 

DIMENSIONS  : 

Frame:  4  pieces  l/2"  thick  X  3"  wide  X  48"  long,  for  upright  pieces. 
16  pieces  i"  thick  X  i"  wide  X  16"  long,  to  be  used  as  crosspieces  for 
top,  bottom,  and  shelves. 

Door:  2  pieces  l/2"  thick  X  3"  wide  X  39"  long,  for  upright  pieces. 
2  pieces  i"  thick  X  i"  wide  X  16"  long,  for  crosspieces. 

51 


HOME  LABOR  SAVING  DEVICES 


Top 
Frame 


CD 


Pan 

i 

S 

V 

j 

c 

-* 

Screen 
Door 

<3"> 

^ 

N 

M 

[ 

r- 

Front 

/*•" 

i 

S3" 

lO 

Pan 

' 

Cover  with 

Screen 

^2 

t 

v 

.1 

Zinc  Shelves 

r 

Placed  on  cleats 

3 

r 

\ 

o> 

Side 

. 

, 

•  . 

<            //T"              •> 

\              /Q                     r 

POUCH  EQUIPMENT  53 


DIRECTIONS  : 

Make  the  frame  31/&'  high  with  twelve  crosspieces  tacked  to  the  four  posts, 
nailing  the  first  4  strips  9"  from  the  bottom  of  the  frame,  and  the 
remaining  8  strips  about  n"  apart.  An  18^/2"  square  frame  is  made  of 
wood  and  nailed  on  top  of  the  posts.  The  corners  of  this  square  are 
mitered  or  lapped  over  and  tacked  together.  Use  a  biscuit  pan  to  fit  in 
top  of  the  square  to  hold  the  water.  The  whole  refrigerator  should 
stand  in  a  larger  pan  which  catches  the  drippings  from  the  cover  and 
keeps  away  the  insects.  The  screen  door  is  made  39"  long  X  16"  wide, 
which  is  joined  to  the  frame  with  hinges  and  fastens  with  a  hook.  Three 
movable  shelves  with  perforations  in  them  are  made  of  zinc.  Cover  the 
whole  frame  with  wire  screening  to  protect  it  from  the  flies.  When  the 
frame  is  finished  it  should  be  painted  white  and  enameled.  This  will 
permit  of  its  being  washed  every  day.  A  covering  of  white  canton  flannel 
'is  made  to  fit  the  screen,  with  the  smooth  side  out,  care  being  taken  that 
the  cover  comes  to  the  lower  edge  of  the  frame.  The  wicks  are  made  half 
the  width  of  the  sides  and  tacked  on  the  top  edge  of  each  side.  These 
must  be  long  enough  to  extend  3"  over  into  the  water.  Strips  of 
canton  flannel  2"  wide  are  tacked  all  around  the  sides  and  the  top  of 
the  frame,  and  the  eyes  are  sewed  on  these.  White  tape  may  be  used 
for  this  purpose  if  more  convenient.  Sew  one  row  of  hooks  on  the 
edge  of  the  covering  near  the  latch  and  the  other  just  opposite  the  open- 
ing, with  the  hem  to  extend  far  enough  over  on  each  side  to  cover  crack 
at  the  edge  of  door.  This  permits  the  door  to  be  opened  without  un- 


54  HOME  LABOR  SAVING  DEVICES 

fastening  the  hooks,  keeping  out  the  warm  outside  air  and  at  the  same 
time  retaining  the  cool  air  inside  the  refrigerator.  Hook  the  covering 
around  the  top  also.  Place  the  refrigerator  in  a  shady  place  where  the 
air  will  circulate  around  it  freely.  Keep  the  wicks  in  a  supply  of  fresh 
water  in  the  top  pan.  The  water  is  taken  down  the  sides  by  capillary  at- 
traction, and  when  evaporation  takes  place  the  heat  is  taken  from  the 
inside  thereby  lowering  the  temperature. 


PORCH  EQUIPMENT  65 

ICELESS  REFRIGERATOR  NO.  2 

Another  type  of  iceless  refrigerator  which  appears  more 
crude  can  be  made  at  a  cost  of  $1.80.  In  this-  a  cotton  sack  is 
used  for  the  covering.  This  refrigerator  has  proved  more  satis- 
factory than  one  would  suppose.  The  butter  and  milk  from 
several  cows  has  been  kept  in  a  model  of  this  type  at  ten  degrees 
cooler  than  the  outside  air.  It  might  be  well  to  use  cotton  flannel 
for  the  covering  instead  of  ducking  because  when  the  cloth  is  wet 
evaporation  takes  place  more  rapidly. 

MATERIALS  : 

24l/2  yellow  pine. 

51A  yds.  canton  flannel. 

15  lo-penny  nails. 

i  No.  2  galvanized  tub. 

DIMENSIONS: 

Stem:  I  piece  2"  thick  X  4"  wide  X  5"  long. 
Shelves:  2  pieces  i"  thick  X  32"  wide  X  32"  long. 

i   piece  i"  thick    X  20"  wide  X  20"  long. 
Supports:  2  pieces  2"  thick  X  4"  wide  X  18"  long  to  be  used  as  braces  for 

the  foundation. 
Cleats:  4  pieces  2"  thick  X  4"  wide  X  30"  long  to  support  shelves. 


56 


HOME  LABOR  SAVING  DEVICES 


zo1 


\ 


V 


\ 


32" 

t 
N 

PORCH  EQUIPMENT  57 

DIRECTIONS  : 

Nail  the  piece  (2"  X  4"  X  18")  on  the  side  of  the  stem  making  it  even 
with  the  bottom  piece.  Saw  a  2"  base  out  on  the  side  of  the  stem  and 
nail  the  other  piece  measuring  2"  X  4"  X 18"  .  Measure  25"  from  the 
bottom  of  the  stem  and  nail  on  2  cleats  to  support  the  shelf.  Cut  space 
in  the  center  of  piece  (i"  X  32"  X32")  large  enough  to  fit  the  stem  and 
nail  it  to  the  cleats,  thus  making  the  first  shelf.  From  this  point  measure 
20"  and  nail  2  cleats  on  the  stem  to  support  the  second  shelf  (i"  X  32" 
X  32").  Measure  13"  from  the  top  of  the  stem  and  nail  on  shelf  (i" 
X  20"  X  20")  after  cutting  an  opening  (2"  X  4")  in  the  center  of  shelf. 
The  curtain  is  made  of  4  widths  of  the  canton  flannel  measuring  66"  in 
length  with  a  draw  string  put  at  the  top  and  bottom  of  the  curtain.  This 
makes  the  refrigerator  dust  and  fly  proof. 


58 


HOME  LABOR  SAVING  DEVICES 


UMBRELLA  STAND 

A  good  problem  to  be  used  in  woodwork  classes  in  the  school 
or  to  be  made  by  boys  in  the  home.  It  will  be  found  appropriate 
and  useful  in  the  reception  hall  or  on  the  porch.  It  is  built  of 
dry  goods  boxes,  with  a  five-cent  pan  used  in  the  bottom  to  catch 
the  drippings  from  the  umbrellas. 

MATERIALS  : 

i  box  9"  deep  X  12"  wide  X  30"  high. 

54  lb.  eight-penny  nails  to  make  the  frame. 

i  small  round  tin  pan  to  fit  in  bottom  of  the  stand. 

Sandpaper  and  stain. 


DIMENSIONS 
4  pieces 
4  pieces 
6  pieces 
6  pieces 


thick  X  2^"  wide  X  30"  long,  to  be  used  as  upright  pieces. 
thick  X  2^4"  wide  X  30"  long,  to  be  used  as  upright  pieces. 
thick  X  3"  wide  X  12"  long,  to  be  used  as  crosspieces. 
thick  X  3"  wide  X  11"  long,  to  be  used  as  crosspieces. 


Bottom:  i  piece  12"  thick  X  12"  wide  X  12"  long. 

DIRECTIONS  : 

Make  three  boxes  of  the  six  pieces  (W  X  3"  X  12")  and  six  pieces  (1A" 
X  3"  X  n"),  putting  the  bottom,  12"  square,  on  the  bottom  box  to  be 


PORCH  EQUIPMENT 


60  HOME  LABOR  SAVING  DEVICES 

used  as  foundation  of  the  frame.  Make  a  hole  in  this  bottom  large  enough 
to  hold  a  round  tin  pan.  This  hole  should  be  cut  before  nailing  the  piece 
on  the  bottom  of  the  box.  Nail  the  four  long  pieces  (measuring 
54"  X  2^4"  X  30")  on  the  end  of  the  three  boxes,  placing  the  boxes 
seven  inches  apart  on  the  frame.  Nail  four  pieces  (measuring  j£"  X 
2^"  X  30")  on  the  ends  of  the  boxes  to  extend  one-fourth  inch  over  the 
first  four  strips  which  were  nailed  on  the  boxes.  Sandpaper,  stain,  and 
polish. 


PORCH  EQUIPMENT 

BLACKING  BOX 


61 


A  necessary  and  useful  home  convenience  made  of  a  box, 
with  a  cover  made  in  two  sections  and  joined  with  hinges.  It  is 
a  time-saver  to  the  busy  housewife  who  has  to  go  so  often  in 
search  for  blacking  and  polish  before  she  can  get  the  children 
ready  for  school.  It  serves  as  a  reminder  to  the  busy  farmer 
who  is  disposed  to  go  to  town  or  to  church  before  giving  his 
shoes  a  dressing. 


MATERIALS  : 
i  box. 

Y2  lb.  six-penny  nails  to  construct  box. 
I  pair  \y2"  (butt)  hinges  to  fasten  top. 
Sandpaper  and  stain. 

DIMENSIONS  : 

Body:  $1/4"  deep  X  13^"  wide  X  14^"  long  (inside  measurements). 
Top:  2  pieces  y2"  thick  X  8"  wide  X  6y4"  long. 
Legs:  4  pieces    Y%'  thick  X  i^"  wide  X  13^"   long. 
4  pieces   %"  thick  X  i^"  wide  X  1^/4"  long. 

DIRECTIONS  : 

Remove  the  cover  from  box  (5^4"  deep  X  13^"  X  14^")  and  nail  the 
legs  on,  making  them  seven  inches  longer  than  the  outside  depth  of  the 
box.  Nail  one  half  of  the  cover  on  top  of  box,  allowing  it  to  project 
evenly  all  round  the  edge  of  the  box.  Fasten  the  other  half  of  the  cover 
to  this  half  with  hinges.  Sandpaper,  stain,  and  polish, 


HOME  LABOR  SAVING  DEVICES 


-/6^ 


Front 


.AJ§.I<*. 


1 

*» 
(t 

> 

Top  With 
Cover  Removed 

* 

\ 
/d'-"                 +L 

/4J                   -*z 

PORCH  EQUIPMENT 


63 


TOWEL  ROLLER 

A  towel  roller  built  so  simply  that  any  boy  on  the  farm  would 
take  pleasure  in  working  out  the  problem.  It  is  much  easier  to 
keep  a  clean  towel  in  the  right  place  when  the  proper  place  is 
provided  for  the  towel  to  be  kept.  This  convenience  should  be 
a  joy  to  every  tired  farmer  when  he  comes  in  to  partake  of  a 
meal.  Again,  the  tendency  of  all  children  to  throw  the  towels 
about  the  place  is  a  great  nuisance  to  the  housewife.  This  rack 
provides  that  the  towel  be  sewed  together  and  placed  on  the 
roller,  which  is  then  slipped  into  the  groove  made  to  hold  it. 


MATERIALS  : 

3'  of  poplar. 

54  lb.  8-penny  nails. 

Sandpaper  and  stain. 

DIMENSIONS  : 

Foundation:  i  piece  24"  thick  X  5"  wide  X  24"  long,  to  which  the  brackets 

are  nailed. 

Brackets:  2  pieces  5"  thick  X  5"  wide  X  5"  long. 
Rod:  i  piece   ij4"  thick  X  i#"  wide  X  24"  long. 


64  HOME  LABOR  SAVING  DEVICES 

DIRECTIONS  : 

The  brackets  are  made  any  desired  shape,  with  a  hole  a  half-inch  in  diame- 
ter bored  in  the  centre  of  each  piece.  A  slit  is  cut  in  one  bracket  from  the 
hole  to  the  top  for  the  end  of  the  rod  to  slip  in  and  out.  Round  the 
piece  (1^/4"  X  i^"  X  24")  for  the  rod.  At  each  end  cut  a  tenon  one 
inch  in  diameter.  Nail  the  end  pieces  to  the  board  (^"  X  5"  X  24"). 
Insert  the  rod  into  the  hole  in  the  one  end  piece  and  slip  it  into  the  slit 
at  the  other  end.  Sandpaper,  stain,  and  polish. 


PORCH  EQUIPMENT  65 

PORCH  SWING 

An  inexpensive  mission  style  swing  made  of  oak  with  space 
long  enough  for  two  to  sit  in  and  broad  enough  to  be  used  for 
lounging  purposes.  A  pad  made  of  burlap  and  stuffed  with  an 
old  discarded  quilt  will  add  to  the  comfort  of  the  swing. 

DIMENSIONS  : 

Frame:  4  pieces,  Y^"  thick  X  3"  wide  X  43"  long  for  rails  in  frame. 

2  pieces,  24"  thick  X  3"  wide  X  22"  long  for  ends  of  frame. 
Posts:  2  pieces,  1^2"  thick  X  2"  wide  X  19"  long  for  front  posts. 

4  pieces  i^"  thick  X  2"  wide  X  23^."  long  for  arms  and  back  posts. 
Slats:  14  pieces  *4"  thick  X  3"  wide  X  14"  long  for  back  and  end  slats. 

16  pieces  l/2"  thick  X  3"  wide  X  20"  long  for  slats  in  seat. 
Cleats:  2  pieces  yz"  thick  X  2"  wide  X  48"  long. 
DIRECTIONS  : 

Mortise  the  end  posts  for  the  back  and  the  front,  also  arm  posts.  Mortise 
the  back  and  front  and  end  rails  of  the  frame  to  fit  the  end  posts.  Nail 
and  glue  them  into  position.  Round  the  edges  of  the  seat  slats  and  nail 
to  cleats  on  the  front  and  back  of  the  frame.  Mortise  the  back  and  end 
slats,  fitting  them  into  the  rails  and  frame  and  fasten  with  strong  glue. 
Use  support  made  of  iron  and  fastened  to  the  seat  with  screws  to  give 
strength  to  the  mortises  formed  at  the  arms  and  front  posts.  The  chains 
to  suspend  the  swing  are  fastened  to  holes  made  in  these  iron  supports. 
Make  the  back  of  the  swing  first,  then  the  ends  and  front,  nailing  the  seat 
slats  in  after  the  glue  has  fastened  the  mortises  securely  together. 

5 


66 


HOME  LABOR  SAVING  DEVICES 


CHAPTER  IV 
MISCELLANEOUS  EQUIPMENT 

A  DUSTLESS  MOP 

A  cheap  and  efficient  article  for  the 
housewife  is  a  mop  made  of  old  stock- 
ings and  the  handle  of  an  old,  discarded 
broom.  This  mop  may  be  used  success- 
fully for  polished  and  painted  floors  as 
well  as  for  unpolished  floors.  It  is  made 
by  cutting  the  straw  off  of  a  broom 
which  has  worn  out.  This  is  cut  even 
with  the  wires  which  hold  the  straw  on 
the  handle.  Cover  this  part  of  the 
broom  with  an  old  stocking,  which  is 
tacked  to  the  handle  securely  by  sew- 
ing it  around  two  or  three  times  with 
a  double  thread.  Legs  of  old  stockings 
are  cut  twelve  inches  long  with  these 
strips  cut  leaving  a  band  two  inches 
wide  to  sew  to  the  covering  of  the 
broom.  Sew  them  round  and  round 
the  surface  in  rows  about  an  inch  apart, 
until  the  mop  has  been  made  the  desired 
thickness.  Dip  the  mop  into  a  solution 
made  of  one-half  a  cupful  of  melted 
paraffin  and  one  cupful  of  coal  oil. 
When  the  mop  is  not  in  use,  it  must 
be  wrapped  up  and  kept  in  a  paper 
bag  in  order  to  keep  it  moist. 


67 


68  HOME  LABOR  SAVING  DEVICES 

FOLDING  CANNING  TABLE 

The  table  shown  in  this  illustration  is  made  of  poplar  and 
designed  especially  for  the  Canning  Club  agent.  It  folds  up  and 
requires  little  space,  which  makes  it  convenient  to  take  around 
during  the  canning  season.  The  top  is  zinc-lined  to  make  it 
more  durable  and  sanitary.  In  the  center  an  opening  is  made 
to  hold  the  bucket  which  catches  the  parings  from  the  vegetables 
or  fruits.  On  the  left  side  is  an  adjustable  zinc-lined  trough  to 
hold  the  vegetables  or  fruits  while  preparing  them  for  use.  This 
will  save  many  steps  in  going  to  and  from  the  basket  to  get  these 
things.  A  hole  is  bored  in  the  trough,  to  which  is  attached  a 
small  pipe  that  allows  the  water  with  which  the  vegetables  or 
fruits  have  been  washed  to  run  off. 

MATERIALS  : 


ft.  of  poplar. 
54  lb.  No.  5  box  nails  to  nail  trough  on  table. 
60  three-penny  box  nails  to  nail  the  zinc  on  top  of  table. 
16  No.  5  screws,  24",  to  fasten  the  legs  on  table. 
2  pairs  of  2"  (butt)  hinges  to  hinge  legs  on  table. 
6  3"  gate  hooks  to  hook  on  legs  and  trough. 
6l/2  Ibs.  28-gage  zinc  to  cover  the  top  of  table. 
i  pail  to  fit  in  hole  9"  in  diameter. 

DIMENSIONS  : 

Top:  i  piece  %"  thick  X  24"  wide  X  44"  long. 

Bottom:  i  piece  %"  thick  X  10"  wide  X  34"  long,  to  be  used  as  bottom 

shelf. 
Crosspieccs:  2  pieces  Y%"  thick  X  4"  wide  X  20^"  long,  to  be  hinged  on 

the  top  of  the  table. 

2  pieces  %"  thiclc  X  iy2"  wide  X  15^2"  long,  to  be  used  as  braces  for 

bottom  shelf. 

Legs:  4  pieces   il/2"  thick  X  \y2"  wide  X  27^"  long. 
Braces:  2  pieces  $4"  thick  X  il/2"  wide  X  2^2"  long,  to  support  top  piece. 
Trough:  i  piece  6"  thick  X  $y2"  wide  X  24"  long. 

i  piece  6"  thick  X  6"  wide  X  24"  long. 
Hole:  y%'  thick  X  9"  wide  X  9"  long,  for  opening  in  center  of  table. 

DIRECTIONS  : 

Measure  4  inches  from  each  end  of  the  top  and  fasten  the  two  crosspieces 
(24"  thick  X  \y2"  wide  X  2Ol/2"  long)  putting  one  on  each  end  to  brace 


MISCELLANEOUS  EQUIPMENT 


>, 


-ZOi 


J-     h 


70 


HOME  LABOR  SAVING  DEVICES 


the  top  of  the  table.  These  crosspieces  must  also  be  put  at  equal  dis- 
tances from  the  sides  of  the  top.  Screw  the  legs  on  these  two  pieces, 
using  the  crosspieces  (%"  X  il/2"  X  IS/^")  as  braces  for  the  legs.  Use 
two  gate  hooks  on  each  end  of  table  to  support  the  legs  when  the  table  is 
unfolded.  The  bottom  shelf  (%"  X  10"  X  34")  is  placed  crosswise  on 
the  braces  and  9"  from  the  bottom  of  legs.  This  shelf  is  not  to  be 
stationary,  for  it  has  to  be  removed  when  the  table  is  unfolded.  Bore  a  hole 
9"  in  diameter  in  the  center  of  table  to  hold  the  bucket.  Fasten  the  trough, 
after  it  has  been  completed!,  on  the  left  side  of  the  table  with  two  gate 
Hooks.  Cover  the  top  of  the  table  with  the  zinc,  using  the  60  3-penny 
nails  to  tack  it  on  the  top.  Sandpaper,  stain,  and  polish  the  table. 


MISCELLANEOUS  EQUIPMENT 


71 


FLY  TRAP 

This  trap  as  described  below  is  not  only  good  for  the  house 
and  the  back  porch,  where  so  many  flies  are  attracted  by  the  odor 
of  the  foods,  but  also  excellent  for  use  out  of  doors.  It  is  in- 
expensive and  can  be  easily  made  at  home.  Much  of  the  success 
of  the  trap  depends  upon  the  bait  used.  There  are  many  kinds  of 
baits  recommended,  such  as  a  plate  of  vinegar  with  sugar  scattered 
around  it,  banana  skins,  syrups,  and  meat.  The  bait  is  placed 
beneath  the  cone  in  a  saucer,  which  rests  on  the  bottom  board  of 


the  trap.  The  flies  then  enter  the  cone  and  are  destroyed  by  smok- 
ing before  being  removed  through  the  hole  in  the  top.  If  a 
poisonous  bait  is  used  the  smoking  is  not  necessary. 

MATERIALS  : 
3'  of  poplar. 
12  5-penny  box  nails. 
I  small  box  of  3  oz.  tacks, 
i  YA"  No.  5  screw. 
2l/2  yds.  of  wire  netting,  24"  wide. 

DIMENSIONS  : 

Top:  i  piece  i"  thick  X  16"  wide  X  16"  long. 
Bottom:  i  piece  i"  thick  X  16"  wide  X  16"  long. 
Cover:  i  piece   ^A"  thick  X  i^"  wide  X  2^"  long. 
Braces:  3  pieces    %"  thick  X  i"  wide  X  24^"  long. 
Cone:  8"  high  and  12"  in  diameter  at  bottom. 


HOME  LABOR  SAVING  DEVICES 


•Brace 


PATTERN  OF  INSIDE  CONE 


5IDE   VIEW 


Opening 


BOTTOM 


MISCELLANEOUS  EQUIPMENT  73 


DIRECTIONS  : 


Take  one  piece  (i"  X  16"  X  16")  and  find  the  center,  using  a  radius  of 
8"  to  make  a  circle  for  the  bottom  of  the  trap.  Then  use  a  radius  of  6" 
to  make  an  opening  in  the  bottom  on  which  the  cone  fits.  An 
opening  of  i"  X  2"  is  made  at  some  convenient  point  in  the  bottom  of  trap 
through  which  the  dead  flies  are  removed.  Take  a  piece  of  wood 
(%"  X  il/2"  X  2,l/2")  and  make  a  cover  to  fit  over  this  opening.  Fasten 
it  on  the  bottom  with  a  screw  so  that  it  may  be  easily  turned.  Make  the 
cone  of  a  piece  of  wire  netting  10"  wide.  It  must  fit  the  inside  circle 
in  the  bottom  as  shown  in  the  illustration.  Tack  this  to  the  bottom  with 
3-oz.  tacks.  The  top  of  the  trap  is  made  just  like  the  bottom  using  the 
same  radius.  Cut  out  3  places  in  the  top  and  bottom  for  the  braces 
(%"  X  i"  X  24^")  to  fit  in.  These  must  extend  24"  below  the  bottom  and 
nailed  in  place  with  5-penny  box  nails.  Cover  the  opening  in  the  top 
with  a  piece  of  wire  netting  13"  in  diameter.  The  whole  frame  is  then 
covered  with  the  24"  wire  netting. 


74 


HOME  LABOR  SAVING  DEVICES 


GARBAGE  BARREL 

The  problem  of  the  quickest  disposal  of  the  kitchen  refuse  for 
the  housekeeper  is  one  of  great  consideration.  The  garbage  barrel, 
as  shown  in  the  illustration,  is  a  solution  for  this  problem,  in 
that  it  is  put  between  rails  with  a  wheel.  The  garbage  may  thus 
be  rolled  away  as  many  times  a  day  as  necessary,  with  a  minimum 
amount  of  effort.  A  covered  receptacle  promotes  sanitation 
around  the  back  premises.  The  size  of  this  convenience  varies 
with  the  material  available  for  making  the  device  and  with  the 
size  of  the  family. 


MATERIALS  : 

10'  of  oak. 

8  3^"  X  Y%'  carriage  bolts. 

I  barrel  wheel  14"  in  diameter. 

DIMENSIONS  : 

Rails:  2  pieces    i"  thick  X  6"  wide  X  28"  long,  to  be  used  to  hold  the 

barrel  in  place. 
Handles:  2  pieces  */2"  thick  X  2^"  wide  X  5"  long. 

DIRECTIONS  : 

Measure  and  saw  the  handles  the  right  dimensions.  Taper  them  at  one  end 
as  shown  in  the  illustration.  Fasten  the  rails  to  the  handles  with  the 
eight  (3^"  X  y%")  bolts,  making  the  front  rail  shorter  than  the  back 
one.  The  opening  between  the  rails  must  fit  the  barrel  at  the  bottom 
hoop.  Attach  the  wheel,  14"  in  diameter,  to  the  smaller  end  of  the  two 
handles. 


MISCELLANEOUS  EQUIPMENT 


75 


THE  SCRUBBING  CHARIOT 

A  clever  little  device  which  consists  of  a  comfortable  padded 
frame  which  permits  the  woman  to  do  her  scrubbing  with  more 
ease  and  comfort  and  saves  her  from  taking  many  unnecessary 
steps.  To  the  left  it  has  a  stand  for  the  soap,  and  on  the  right 
may  be  placed  a  wire  hoop  to  hold  the  bucket  of  water  while 
scrubbing.  This  will  be  found  more  useful  to  the  woman 
who  has  not  access  to  the  more  modern  conveniences  used  for 
scrubbing. 


MATERIALS  : 
2^'  poplar. 

4  flat  trunk  rollers  for  bottom  of  chariot. 
l/4  lb.  8-penny  nails  to  be  used  in  making  frame. 
i  box  brass-headed  tacks  to  be  used  in  putting  padding  in  bottom  of 

chariot, 
i  soap  holder, 
i  yard  burlap  to  make  the  padding. 

DIMENSIONS  : 

Bottom:  i  piece  «K"  thick  X  10"  wide  X  20"  long. 
Front;  i  piece  Yz"  thick  X  4"  wide  X  20"  long. 
Sides:  2  pieces  Y^'  thick  X  4"  wide  X  10"  long. 

DIRECTIONS  : 

Nail  the  sides  to  the  bottom  board.  Fit  the  front  piece  to  this  and  nail  to 
the  bottom  and  sides.  Four  flat  rollers  are  screwed  on  the  bottom,  and 
the  frame  sandpapered,  stained,  and  polished.  A  cushion  made  of  the 
burlap  and  stuffed  with  excelsior,  a  piece  of  an  old  comfort,  or  cotton,  is 
tacked  in  the  bottom  with  the  brass-headed  tacks.  Tack  the  soap  stand 
on  the  left  side  of  the  chariot  and  an  iron  hoop  to  the  right,  if  so  desired. 
A  soap  box  or  cheese  box  may  be  used  to  advantage  in  making  this  device 
if  one  side  is  knocked  out  and  the  three  remaining  sides  cut  down  to  the 
height  of  5". 


76 


HOME  LABOR  SAVING  DEVICES 


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MISCELLANEOUS  EQUIPMENT 

SEWING  SCREEN 


77 


An  effort  to  minimize  the  "  ups  and  downs  "  of  the  busy 
woman  when  she  finds  a  few  precious  moments  to  do  fancy  work 
or  to  read.  It  is  an  accessible  device,  consisting  of  a  light  frame, 
covered  with  burlap,  with  conveniently  arranged  pockets  and 


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other  useful  features.  It  is  of  a  convenient  height  to  be  lifted 
from  place  to  place  with  a  little  effort ;  or  it  may  be  put  on  casters 
and  rolled  around.  Its  position  near  the  tired  woman's  chair 
will  cause  her  to  feel  an  eternal  warmth  toward  the  designer,  for 
she  will  find  somewhere  on  its  hooks,  shelf,  or  in  its  pockets  the 
very  thing  needed  when  with  a  sigh  of  relief  she  has  taken  her  seat. 


78 


HOME  LABOR  SAVING  DEVICES 


MATERIALS  : 

10'  of  poplar. 

22  No.  16  brads,  ^4",  for  nailing  joints. 

2^  pairs  of  il/2r'  (butt)  hinges  to  be  used  in  joining  the  panels,  fastening 

the  drop  shelf  to  crosspiece,  and  adjusting  the  bracket. 
20  No.  5  flat-headed  screws,  ^",  used  for  hinges. 

2  metal  handles  to  put  on  top  of  each  side  of  screen. 

4  No.  5  screws,  y2" ,  to  put  handles  on. 

2  yds.  burlap  to  cover  the  screen. 

i  box  brass-headed  tacks  to  put  burlap  on  screen. 
12  brass  cup  hooks  to  be  used  on  crosspiece. 

i  yd.  of  creton  to  make  pockets. 
Sandpaper  and  stain. 


DIMENSIONS  : 

Stiles:  4  pieces  i1/*"  X  \y2"  X  30",  to  be  used  as  upright  pieces  to 

screen. 
Crosspieces:  4  pieces  il/2"  X  il/2"  X  i2l/2" ,  to  be  used  at  the  top  and 

bottom  of  frame. 

2  pieces  il/2"  X  il/2"  X  12^",  to  be  used  for  pegs  to  hold  spools. 

i  piece  il/2"  X  il/2"  X  i2l/2",  to  hinge  the  shelf. 

DIRECTIONS  : 

On  the  two  upright  pieces  (1^2"  X  il/2"  X  30")  make  4^4"  mortises  to  fit 
the  tenons  made  on  the  crosspieces,  making  the  first  mortise  i"  from  the 
bottom  of  the  frame  and  the  second  mortise  16^2"  from  the  first.  The 
third  and  fourth  mortises  in  the  upright  piece  are  made  2^4"  apart  and 


MISCELLANEOUS  EQUIPMENT  79 

the  third  the  same  distance  from  the  top.  The  other  upright  piece  to  the 
panel  is  treated  in  the  same  way.  On  two  of  these  crosspieces  there 
are  nailed,  at  equal  distances  apart,  little  pegs  to  hold  the  spools.  Cup 
hooks  are  fastened  on  the  under  side  of  one  crosspiece  to  hold  the  bags. 
Make  the  other  panel  of  the  screen  in  the  same  way,  only  making  mortises 
and  tenons  for  three  crosspieces  instead  of  four.  The  first  crosspiece  on 
this  panel  is  put  i"  from  the  bottom;  the  second,  16^/2"  from  the  first;  and 
the  third  piece  4/^2"  from  the  second.  Hinge  the  drop  door  on  the  top  edge 
of  the  last  crosspiece  and  hinge  the  bracket  to  support  the  drop  door  in 
the  center  of  crosspiece.  Put  the  handles  on  each  screen  with  the  4  ^2"  No. 
5  screws.  Hinge  the  two  panels  together  and  cover  the  outside  of  screen 
burlap,  using  the  brass-headed  tacks  for  this  purpose.  The  frame  must  be 
sandpapered,  stained,  and  polished  before  the  burlap  and  pockets  are  put 
on.  The  creton  pockets  are  put  on  the  inside  of  screen  about  halfway 
the  panel. 


80  HOME  LABOR  SAVING  DEVICES 

A  HOMEMADE  SHOWER  BATH 

A  cheap  but  convenient  arrangement  to  be  used  in  any  home 
for  giving  shower  baths  where  the  other  fixtures  are  not  to  be 
had.  This  may  be  used  to  a  greater  advantage  in  country  homes 
where  there  are  many  little  children.  They  would  find  joy  in  the 
use  of  same. 

MATERIALS  : 

i  4-gallon  tin  bucket 
I  medium  size  zinc  tub. 

1  nozzle  with  6'  rubber  tubing. 

2  pulleys  with  i  staple. 

I  piece  of  piping  2"  long. 

I  clothes  pin. 

12'  rope. 

i  pint  white  paint. 

I  pint  white  enamel. 

DIRECTIONS  : 

Cut  a  hole  in  the  4-gallon  water  bucket  in  the  center  of  the  bottom.  On 
this  opening  solder  the  piece  of  piping,  2"  long.  Attach  to  the  end  of  this 
piece  of  pipe  the  6'  of  rubber  tubing  with  the  nozzle  on  the  other  end. 
The  sprinkler  from  a  watering  can  may  be  substituted  for  the  nozzle  if 
not  convenient  to  get  one.  Tie  a  piece  of  rope  to  the  handle  of  the  bucket 
and  run  it  through  a  pulley  which  is  fastened  to  the  ceiling  with  a  staple. 
Have  another  staple  put  in  the  wall  below  the  window  sash  and  run  the 
rope  through  it  also.  This  allows  the  bucket  to  be  raised  or  lowered  to  suit 
the  convenience  of  the  person  taking  the  shower.  A  hook  is  placed  below 
the  staple  in  the  window  joist,  which  holds  the  bucket  in  place  when  not  in 
use.  The  flow  of  the  water  is  adjusted  by  the  use  of  a  clothes  pin  operated 
on  the  rubber  tubing.  Use  a  medium  size  zinc  tub  to  stand  in  while  taking 
the  shower.  It  makes  the  whole  shower  bath  more  attractive  to  paint  the 
bucket  and  tub  white  and  then  enamel  them. 


MISCELLANEOUS  EQUIPMENT 


81 


82  HOME  LABOR  SAVING  DEVICES 

WATERWORKS  OUTFIT  FOR  THE  HOME 

The  following  illustration  shows  a  simple  but  cheap  arrange- 
ment for  a  practical  water  system  to  be  used  in  the  farm  home. 

A  few  minutes  pumping  each  morning  by  the  man  of  the 
family  will  provide  a  supply  of  water  for  the  day's  use,  or,  where 
there  is  no  force  pump,  the  water  may  be  brought  in  pails  until 
the  barrel  is  filled  every  day.  While  not  the  most  satisfactory 
plan  for  putting  water  into  the  home,  it  is  far  better  than  having 
to  carry  the  water  from  a  pump  or  often  from  a  spring  which  is 
a  long  distance  from  the  house.  It  is  a  labor-  and  time-saving 
device  for  the  farm  woman  and  enables  her  to  do  more  efficient 
work  in  every  way. 

MATERIALS  : 

i  force  pump. 

ioo'  of  1 1/4"  galvanized  iron  pipe  for  suction. 

Foot  valve  for  suction  pipe. 

piece  of  rubber  hose. 

tight  coupling  to  bear  weight  of  hose  at  barrel  opening. 
"  thick  boards  to  build  platform. 

ob-gallon  water  tight  barrel. 

"  water  pipe  to  connect  barrel  with  faucet. 
\y2"  faucet 
i  sink  (18"  X  30"). 

50'  of  il/4"  lead  pipe  to  be  used  for  S-trap. 
50  ft.  4"  drain  pipe. 

DIRECTIONS  : 

Pump.  Bore  a  hole  about  2"  below  the  lid  of  the  barrel.  This  must  be 
large  enough  to  permit  the  piece  of  coupling  to  fit  in  it  tightly.  It  is  not 
necessary  to  use  the  coupling  but  it  will  give  a  better  support  to  the  hose. 
Fasten  one  end  of  the  hose  to  the  coupling  and  the  other  end  to  the  pump. 
On  the  opposite  side  bore  a  hole  with  a  24"  auger  and  attach  the  y2"  piece 
of  water  pipe  to  it. 

Shelf:  Raise  the  barrel  to  the  platform,  which  is  made  of  i"  boards,  and 
well  braced  underneath.  This  platform  is  fastened  to  the  house  just  out- 
side of  the  kitchen.  It  must  be  put  higher  than  the  kitchen  sink  in  order 
to  obtain  pressure  enough  to  give  a  steady  flow  of  water.  A  tight-fitting 
lid  is  placed  on  top  of  the  barrel  to  keep  out  the  trash  and  the  insects. 
Fasten  the  faucet  to  the  ^2"  pipe  on  the  barrel  which  extends  through 
an  opening  made  in  the  wall. 

Sink:  Place  the  sink,  supported  by  brackets,  on  the  inside  of  the  kitchen 
wall  and  at  a  convenient  height  from  the  floor  for  the  woman  to  com- 
fortably use. 

Drainage:  Fit  the  S-trap  to  the  4"  drain  pipe  to  carry  off  the  water  from 
the  sink. 


MISCELLANEOUS  EQUIPMENT 


83 


CHAPTER  V 

POULTRY  DEVICES 

POULTRY  HOUSE 

A  portable  house  placed  on  runners  is  shown  in  the  following 
cut.  It  can  be  easily  moved  by  four  men  carrying  it,  or  be  drawn  by 
hitching  a  horse  to  the  ends  of  the  runners.  A  house  of  this  type 
has  many  advantages  over  the  stationary  house  because  it  can  be 
moved  into  the  field  after  the  grain  is  cut,  into  the  orchard,  and 
into  the  different  fields  where  the  chickens  can  get  plenty  of  fresh 
green  food. 

MATERIALS  : 

Use.  Size  No.  of  Length          Board 

pieces  measure 

Sills    (runners)    4"  X  6"  2  12'  48' 

Joists    2"X4"  3  14'  28' 

Studs  and  braces 2"  X  3"  13  12'  78' 

Rafters    2"  X  4"  3  16'  32' 

Total 186' 

7/%"  Matched  flooring  (floor  and  sides) 340' 

%"  Sheathing,  surfaced  one  side 100' 

Roofing  paper,  I  roll. 
Windows,  hardware,  etc. 

DIRECTIONS  : 

A  good  location  is  the  first  consideration  in  the  building  of  a  poultry  house. 
Select  a  well  drained  spot,  facing  the  southeast  and  large  enough  to  make 
comfortable  quarters  for  the  chickens. 

The  house  is  built  of  any  kind  of  durable  and  well-seasoned  lumber.  The 
kind  of  material  used  in  making  the  floor  will  depend  largely  on  the  soil 
and  the  money  to  be  spent  in  the  construction  of  the  house.  Board  floors 
are  often  used  but  they  are  more  susceptible  to  rats.  Cement  floors  are 
more  easily  cleaned  and  more  sanitary,  and  not  so  expensive  in  a  locality 
where  plenty  of  gravel  is  available.  A  board  floor  must  be  raised  several 
inches  from  the  ground  as  a  protection  from  rats  and  to  allow  for  runners 
to  be  placed  underneath  the  house. 

Roosts  are  placed  on  the  same  level  with  each  other  next  to  the  end  or  back 
walls  and  from  6"  to  10"  above  the  dropping  boards,  which  are  2^/2"  from 
the   floor.     Roosts   may   be   stationary  as   in  the   cut,   or  they  may  be 
84 


A  portable  poultry  house,  showing  the  exterior  and  interior 


POULTRY  DEVICES  85 

fastened  by  hinges  to  the  walls  and  raised  to  clean  the  dropping  board. 
Roost  spacing  will  depend  upon  the  size  of  the  fowls,  but  a  10"  space  to 
each  fowl  is  usually  sufficient.  They  must  be  put  15"  apart. 
Nests  made  14"  square  are  built  under  the  dropping  boards  around  the 
walls  of  the  house  as  shown  in  cut  A  4"  piece  of  wood  is  placed  on  the 
side,  which  drops  as  a  door  in  front  of  the  nests. 

Windows  as  shown  in  the  cut  are  more  expensive  and  not  as  good  as  a 
front  made  of  wood  extending  about  2'  from  the  bottom.  Wire  screen- 
ing, admitting  better  ventilation  and  more  sunlight,  is  tacked  over  the 
rest  of  the  opening  in  the  front.  A  curtain  may  be  made  of  unbleached 
muslin  and  fastened  on  a  pole  at  the  top  of  the  open  front,  which  may  be 
lowered  as  a  protection  in  bad  weather. 

Make  the  roof  of  some  water  tight  material  and  cover  the  walls  on  the 
inside  to  protect  the  fowls  from  draughts. 

Nests. — Comfortable  and  convenient  quarters  must  be  fur- 
nished the  sitting  hen.  The  location  of  the  nest  must  be  in  a 
quiet,  dark  place  to  keep  the  hen  from  becoming  restless.  A  box 
fifteen  inches  square  and  twelve  inches  high,  with  a  narrow  strip 
four  to  five  inches  wide  at  the  bottom  of  the  open  front  of  the  box, 
makes  a  comfortable  nest.  Barrels  or  half -barrels  or  nests  made 
of  a  piece  of  sod  will  also  be  comfortable  quarters  for  the  sitting 
hen.  The  nests  must  be  well  lined  with  hay,  straw,  or  excelsior. 
Both  the  nests  and  the  hen  must  be  thoroughly  dusted  with  insect 
powder  before  the  sitting  time  comes. 

Hatching  and  Rearing. — There  are  two  methods  used  in  the 
hatching  and  rearing  of  chickens — the  natural,  when  the  chicks 
are  hatched  and  reared  by  a  hen,  and  the  artificial,  when  they  are 
hatched  in  incubators  and  brooded  in  houses  indoors  or  out-of- 
doors.  The  natural  method  will  be  found  to  be  more  satisfactory 
when  dealing  with  a  small  number  of  chickens.  A  small  number 
of  hens,  if  managed  with  system  and  care,  will  produce  a  large 
number  of  chickens  at  a  very  small  cost. 

Care  must  be  taken  in  the  selection  of  the  eggs  to  be  used 
for  hatching  purposes.  Select  well-formed  eggs  which  are  regular 
in  shape  and  size  and  which  are  neither  too  large  nor  too  small. 
They  should  come  from  healthy  hens  of  one  breed  and  should  be 
smooth  and  of  one  color.  Eggs  must  be  kept  in  a  dry,  cool  place 
and  at  a  temperature  of  from  fifty  to  sixty  degrees  Fahrenheit. 
The  fertility  of  an  egg  weakens  with  age ;  so  they  must  be  kept 


86 


HOME  LABOR  SAVING  DEVICES 


only  a  few  days  before  they  are  to  be  set.  The  number  of  eggs 
to  be  put  under  each  hen  will  vary  with  the  season,  the  size  of  the 
hen,  and  the  size  of  the  eggs;  but  it  is  usually  safe  to  put  about 
thirteen  eggs  under  a  hen  of  average  size. 

Egg  Tester. — Test  the  eggs  in  a  dark  room  on  the  seventh  and 
fourteenth  days  for  the  removal  of  infertile  eggs.  This  may  be 
done  by  a  very  simple  home-made  tester  made  of  a  pasteboard 
or  wooden  box,  with  a  hole  the  size  of  an  egg  bored  in  the  front, 
and  an  opening  in  the  top  through  which  the  smoke  is  to  pass. 
If  a  wooden  box  with  a  bottom  is  used,  an  opening  must  be  made 


in  front,  with  a  door  so  as  to  put  the  lamp  in.  A  box  without  a 
bottom  may  be  used  and  simply  set  right  over  the  lamp.  Either 
a  lamp,  candle,  or  lantern  may  be  used  on  the  inside  of  the  box. 
Holding  the  egg  in  front  of  the  box  and  letting  the  light  shine 
through  it  will  show  the  condition  of  the  egg.  An  infertile  egg 
will  be  clear,  while  a  fertile  egg  has  a  spider-like  center  with 
threads  leading  out  from  it.  All  infertile  eggs  must  be  removed. 

Poultry  is  classified  as  the  egg  breeds,  the  meat  breeds,  the 
general-purpose  breeds,  and  the  ornamental  breeds. 

The  egg  breeds  are  small  fowls  which  mature  quickly.    They 


POULTRY  DEVICES  87 

are  very  active,  but  not  good  chickens  to  be  used  for  setting  pur- 
poses. They  are  good  layers,  and  they  lay  a  great  many  white- 
shelled  eggs,  for  which  there  is  a  great  demand  on  some  markets. 
The  age  of  maturity  for  this  breed  is  from  four  and  one-half 
to  five  months.  The  Leghorns  and  the  Minorcas  are  the  principal 
representatives  of  this  breed.  The  single-combed  white  Leghorn 
has  been  the  most  popular. 

The  meat  breeds  are  large  fowls  with  long  necks  and  heavy 
coats  of  feathers ;  and  they  lay  a  comparatively  small  number  of 
brown-shelled  eggs.  They  are  slow  in  movement,  with  little 
desire  to  forage.  They  make  fine  mothers,  and  for  this  reason 
they  make  good  fowls  to  be  used  for  setting.  The  Brahmas, 
Cochins,  and  Langshanks  are  the  principal  fowls  of  this  breed. 

The  general-purpose  breeds  occupy  a  medium  place  between 
the  egg  and  meat  breeds  as  to  size,  egg  production,  and  meat  pro- 
duction. For  these  characteristics  they  are  especially  recom- 
mended to  the  farmer  who  wishes  both  egg  and  meat  fowls.  They 
lay  a  number  of  brown-shelled  eggs  and  they  make  splendid 
mothers.  The  Plymouth  Rocks,  Wyandottes,  Orphingtons,  and 
Rhode  Island  Reds  are  the  best  varieties  of  this  breed. 

The  ornamental  breeds  are  ornamental  both  in  character  and 
purpose,  and  for  this  reason  they  are  not  practical  for  use  on  the 
farm. 

Feeding. — The  farmer  has  often  become  discouraged  by  the 
elaborate  rations  which  are  recommended  by  poultrymen  to  be 
used  in  feeding  the  chickens.  While  some  of  the  by-products  of 
industries,  such  as  Linseed  Meal  and  Meat  Meal  are  necessary, 
most  of  the  feed  used  in  poultry  raising  may  be  raised  on  the 
farm.  It  is  well  to  be  familiar  with  the  different  values  of  foods 
fed  to  the  chickens,  for  they  like  a  change  in  their  rations,  and  it 
is  necessary  that  they  have  it.  If  the  food  contains  too  much  fat, 
the  hens  will  become  too  fat,  which  will  lessen  their  usefulness  as 
egg  producers;  while  if  the  food  contains  too  much  protein,  some 
symptoms  of  indigestion  will  result.  It  is  hard  to  determine  the 
right  amount  of  fat  and  protein  to  be  fed  to  the  chickens,  for 
this  varies  to  suit  conditions  and  the  purpose  for  which  it  is  fed. 


88  HOME  LABOR  SAVING  DEVICES 

Broad  Ration         Food  Available 

Protein  Fat 

2  parts  wheat  bran 244  .906 

i  part  wheat  middlings 128  .607 

1  part  cornmeal 079  .764 

Yio  part   meat   meal 066  .033 

.517  2.310 

Ratio  i :  4.4 

Narrow  Ration   Food  Available 

Protein  Fat 

2  parts  wheat  bran 244  .906 

i  part  wheat  mids 128  .607 

Vio  part  linseed  meal 029  .048 

l.io  part  meat  meal 066  .033 

.467  1.594 

Ratio  i:  34 

Young  chicks  should  be  fed  a  dry  or  wet  feed  forty-eight  hours 
after  they  are  hatched.  Nature  has  already  provided  them  with 
yolk  of  egg,  which  must  be  digested  before  they  are  given  more 
food.  Their  first  feed  must  be  fine  grit  or  a  drink  of  sour  milk. 
In  two  hours  after  the  first  feeding  they  may  be  given  dry  oat 
flakes  with  an  egg  which  has  been  boiled  for  an  hour,  or  a  Johnny 
cake  made  of  ten  parts  of  cornmeal,  two  parts  of  wheat  middlings, 
two  parts  of  wheat  bran,  mixed  with  skimmed  milk  and  baked. 
Change  this  diet  after  a  week  to  a  dry  ration — for  example,  two 
parts  of  cracked  wheat,  two  parts  of  oat  flakes,  four  parts  of 
cracked  corn,  one  part  of  rice,  and  one  part  of  millet.  Plenty 
of  green  food  and  sour  milk  should  be  fed  to  them.  Feed  them 
often,  but  in  small  proportions.  Let  them  take  plenty  of  exercise. 
It  is  important  to  keep  the  hen  up  and  allow  the  chicks  to  run  out 
until  they  are  weaned, 


POULTRY  DEVICES  89 

DRY  MASH  HOPPER  NO.  i 

There  are  many  kinds  of  dry  mash  hoppers  on  the  market  but 
it  is  difficult  to  find  one  that  is  not  wasteful.  This  hopper  which 
is  made  of  poplar  is  easily  made  and  it  has  been  found  to  be  very 
successful.  It  may  be  built  of  the  desired  length  and  made  to 
hold  the  required  amount  of  dry  mash.  The  most  important 
detail  in  the  building  of  this  hopper  is  the  slope  of  the  bottom 
which  must  be  at  an  angle  of  forty-five  degrees  with  the  wall  of 
the  henhouse.  It  must  be  built  well  off  the  floor  with  a  roost 
placed  for  the  hens  to  stand  on  while  they  are  feeding.  This  will 
keep  the  litter  out  of  the  hopper.  The  wire  netting  must  be  of 
one-quarter  inch  square  mesh  which  is  fastened  to  the  hopper  and 
stretched  to  the  bottom  of  the  trough  at  its  lowest  point. 

MATERIALS  : 

\2.y2'  poplar. 

1  Ib.  6-penny  nails. 
16  1/4"  No.  8  screws. 
32  No.  10  screws. 

2  pairs  of  il/2"  (butt)  hinges, 
i  piece  of  y±"  mesh  wire. 

2"  X  2"  gate  hooks. 

DIMENSIONS  : 

Body:  2  pieces  i"  thick  X  5"  wide  X  26"  long,  to  be  used  as  the  ends  of 

the  hopper. 

2  pieces  i"  thick  X  9"  wide  X  19"  long,  to  be  used  as  the  top  and  the 

bottom  of  the  hopper. 

i  piece  i"  thick  X  19"  wide  X  26"  long,  to  be  used  as  back  of  the  hopper. 

i  piece  i"  thick  X  19"  wide  X  17"  long,  to  be  used  as  front  of  hopper. 
Trough:   i  piece    i"  thick  X  4'" wide  X  19"  long,  to  be  used  as  front  of 

trough. 

1  piece  i"  thick  X  5"  wide  X  19"  long,  to  be  used  as  the  lid  in  the  front 
of  trough. 

2  pieces  i"  thick  X  4"  wide  X  9"  long,  to  be  used  as  sides  of  trough. 
Roost:  i  piece   i"  thick  X  2"  wide  X  21"  long,  to  be  used  as  front  of  the 

roost. 

2  pieces  i"  thick  X  2"  wide  X  15"  long,  to  be  used  as  sides  of  roost. 

DIRECTIONS  : 

Take  the  two  end  pieces  (i"  X  5"  X  26")  and  cut  the  tops  at  an  angle  of 
60  degrees  and  the  bottom  of  these  ends  at  an  angle  of  45  degrees.  Nail 
the  bottom  piece  (i"  X  9"  X  19")  to  these  end  pieces  and  then  nail  on  the 
back  (i"X9"X26"). 


90 


HOME  LABOR  SAVING  DEVICES 


1 

O, 

5 

i 

2.6  " 


POULTRY  DEVICES 


91 


The  front  piece  (i"  X  19"  X  17")  is  then  nailed  on  the  hopper. 
The  two  end  pieces  (i"  X  4"  X  9")  to  be  used  on  the  trough  are  cut  at  an 
angle  of  forty-five  degrees  at  one  end  and  nailed  on  each  side  of  the 
bottom  of  the  hopper  as  shown  in  the  illustration.  Then  the  front  of 
the  trough  (i"  X  4"  X  19")  is  nailed  to  the  sides.  Tack  the  wire  mesh 
over  the  opening  in  the  trough  and  hinge  the  front  piece  (i"  X  5"  X  19") 
on  the  front  of  the  trough  with  one  pair  of  i  ^2"  (butt)  hinges. 
The  other  pair  of  hinges  is  used  to  fasten  the  top  (i"  X  9"  X  19")  on  the 
hopper. 

Make  the  roost  by  nailing  the  two  sides  (i"  X  2"  X  15")  to  the  front 
(i"  X  2"  X  21").  Fasten  this  frame  on  the  sides  of  the  hopper  with  two 
two-inch  gate  hooks  as  shown  in  illustration. 

The  hopper  when  completed  is  fastened  to  the  sides  of  the  wall  of  the  hen- 
house with  thirty-two  number  ten  screws  at  a  convenient  height  to  the 
chickens. 


92  HOME  LABOR  SAVING  DEVICES 

DRY  MASH  HOPPER  NO.  2 

This  model  is  constructed  very  much  like  the  hopper  already 
described  with  the  exception  of  the  four  compartments  which 
provide  for  a  balanced  ration  for  the  chickens.  It  is  not  nailed 
to  the  wall  but  rests  on  the  floor. 

MATERIALS  : 

i2l/2   poplar. 

i  Ib.  6-penny  nails. 

8  y4"  No.  8  screws. 

i  pair  of  iY2"  steel  butts. 

I  oz.  No.  16  wire  staples. 

12"  of  No.  4  mesh  wire  36"  wide. 

DIMENSIONS  : 

Body:  2  pieces    i"  thick  X  6"  wide  X  2'  8"  long  to  be  used  as  sides  of 

the  hopper, 
i  piece  i"  thick  X  6"  wide  X  16"  long  to  be  used  as  bottom  of  the  hopper. 

1  piece   i"  thick  X  i'  8"  wide  X  2'  8"  long  to  be  used  as  back  of  hopper. 

2  pieces   i"  thick  X  2"  wide  X  i'  8"  long  and  i"  thick  X  6"  wide  X  i'  8" 
long  to  be  used  as  the  lid  of  the  hopper. 

1  piece  i"  thick  X  i'  8"  wide  X  2'  long  to  be  used  as  front  of  hopper. 

3  pieces    i"  thick  X  6"  wide  X  2'  6"  long  to  be  used  as  partitions  for 
making  the  equal  compartments  in  the  hopper. 

Trough:    2    pieces     i"  thick  X  4"  wide  X  10"    long  to    be    used    as    ends 
of  trough. 

2  pieces    i"  thick  X  4"  wide  X  i'  8"  long  to  be  used  as  front  and  back 
of  trough. 

3  pieces    i"  thick  X  4"  wide  X  4"  long  to  be  used  as  partitions  in  the 

trough,  making  four  equal  compartments. 

DIRECTIONS  : 

Nail  the  two  end  pieces  (i"  X  6"  X  2'  8")  to  the  bottom  piece 
(i"  X  6"  X  16"  ).  Then  nail  the  back  piece  (i"  X  i'  8"  X  2'  8")  and  the 
front  piece  (i"  X  i'  8"  X  2'  4")  to  the  ends  of  the  hopper.  Nail  the 
partitions  (i"  X  6"  X  2'  6"  )  to  the  back  and  front  of  the  hopper  making 
four  equal  compartments. 

The  trough  is  made  by  nailing  the  two  end  pieces  (i"  X  4"  X  10")  to  the 
side  of  the  hopper.  Nail  the  front  (i"  X  4"  X  i'  8")  and  the 
back  (i"  X  4"  X  i'  8")  to  the  ends  of  the  trough.  The  partitions 
(i"  X  4"  X  10")  are  nailed  to  the  front  and  back  of  the  trough,  making 
four  equal  compartments.  Cover  the  opening  in  the  front  of  the  trough 
with  12"  of  No.  4  mesh  wire  36"  wide. 


POULTRY  DEVICES 


93 


Hinge  the  two  top  pieces  (i"  X  2"  X  i'8"  and  i"  X  6"  X  i'8")  together 
with  one  pair  of  \y2"  steel  (butt)  hinges.  Then  nail  this  top  piece  to  the 
back  of  the  hopper  with  the  narrow  strip  even  with  the  edge  of  the  top 
end  of  the  back. 


94  HOME  LABOR  SAVING  DEVICES 


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POULTRY  DEVICES  95 

RACK  FOR  OAT-SPROUTING  TRAYS 

The  importance  of  giving  poultry  green  feed  throughout  the 
year  cannot  be  over-emphasized.  This  sprouting  tray  is  very  con- 
venient in  order  that  this  food  be  furnished  the  chickens.  It  is  a 
simple  construction,  made  of  yellow  pine,  and  a  device  that  can 
be  made  by  any  farmer  at  a  minimum  cost.  It  is  advisable  to  lay 
off  all  the  material  before  beginning  to  build  the  rack,  to  avoid 
confusion  in  the  measurements. 

MATERIALS  : 

2$l/2  feet  of  yellow  pine. 

28  Ibs.  of  28-gage  galvanized  metal  to  make  sprouting  trays, 
i  Ib.  8-penny  nails  for  building  rack. 

DIMENSIONS  : 

Top:  2  pieces  i"  thick  X  2"  wide  X  2'  6"  long. 
Bottom:  2  pieces  i"  thick  X  2"  wide  X  2'  6"  long. 
Corners:    4  pieces  2"  thick  X  4"  wide  X  6"  long  for  upright  corners. 
Brace:  i  piece  i"  thick  X  2"  wide  X  6'  6"  long. 

Cleats:  14  pieces  i"  thick  X  2"  wide  X  2'  6"  long,  to  hold  trays  of  same 
proportions. 

DIRECTIONS  : 

Take  2  upright  pieces  (2"  X4  "  X  6")  and  nail  to  bottom  (i"  X  2  "  X  2'  6"). 
Measure  a  distance  of  two  inches  from  the  top  and  nail  on  first  cleat 
(i"  X  2"  X  2' 6").  Cleats  are  nailed  on  the  back  of  the  frame  even 
with  the  ends  of  the  upright  pieces  (2"  X  4"  X  6").  Nail  brace 
(i"  X  2"  X  6'  6")  diagonally  from  one  corner  to  the  other.  Nail  the 
first  cleat  g  inches  from  the  bottom  edge  of  the  upright  piece.  All 
the  other  cleats  must  be  nailed  8  inches  apart.  In  each  of  the  sprouting 
trays  a  hole  %  of  an  inch  in  diameter  is  bored  to  allow  the  water  to  drain 
out  from  the  tray. 


06 


HOME  LABOR  SAVING  DEVICES 


2  6' 


°^%'ho/es      ° 

1 

*<0 

/"Deep 

o                   ^         o 

f 

2'  6" 


Detail  a/  Tray 


POULTRY  DEVICES 


97 


Dust  Boxes. — Dust  boxes  are  necessary  during  the  winter 
months  to  keep  the  chickens  from  wallowing  in  the  dirt,  as  this  is 
the  method  used  by  them  to  cleanse  themselves.  A  box  four  feet 
by  four  feet  will  be  large  enough  to  accommodate  fifty  chickens. 
Fine,  light,  dry  dust  should  be  kept  in  these  boxes,  and  they  should 
be  placed  in  the  sunlight  and  where  they  may  be  easily  reached 
by  the  chickens. 

Drinking  Vessel. — Should  be  large  enough  to  hold  sufficient 
water  to  last  twenty-four  hours.  They  must  be  elevated  in  some 
way  to  keep  the  dirt  from  getting  into  them.  A  practical  drinking 
vessel  is  made  of  a  Mason  glass  jar.  Make  perforations  in  the 
top  of  the  jar  with  a  nail  and  tack  two  strips  of  wood  across  the 
top  crosswise  to  raise  the  jar  from  the  saucer  or  plate.  This 
allows  the  water  to  flow  freely  from  the  jar  as  fast  as  the  chickens 
can  drink  it  from  the  saucer,  and  the  covered  jar  keeps  the  drink- 
ing water  clean. 


98 


HOME  LABOR  SAVING  DEVICES 


Brooder. — A  simple  and  convenient  chicken  brooder  may  be 
made  of  an  old  wooden  tub  which  is  turned  upside  down  on  a 
platform  with  the  bottom  of  the  tub  knocked  out,  and  a  covering 
placed  over  the  top.  This,  with  windows  cut  in  the  sides  of  the 
tub,  gives  a  better  ventilation  for  the  chickens.  A  door  through 
which  the  chickens  enter  is  cut  in  the  front.  Outside  of  the  brooder 
and  on  one  end  of  the  platform  is  a  simple  watering  device  supply- 
ing the  chickens  with  fresh  water. 


CHAPTER  VI 
DAIRY  DEVICES 

SHOWING  USE  OF  BUTTER-MAKING  EQUIPMENT 

The  economic  value  of  farm  butter  made  from  the  product  of 
a  few  cows  is  of  much  more  importance  than  is  commonly  sup- 
posed. For  this  reason  the  fundamental  principles  underlying  the 
making  of  good  butter  should  be  practised  as  much  by  the  farm 
woman,  making  butter  in  small  quantities  for  the  market  or  the 
consumption  in  the  home,  as  by  the  operator  of  a  large  creamery 
establishment.  The  quality  of  butter  made  on  the  average  farm 
shows  that  cleanliness  and  the  proper  attention  to  the  simplest 
details  in  the  making  of  good  butter  have  been  neglected. 

Quality. — The  method  used  in  the  handling  of  milk  or  cream 
and  in  making  butter  determines  its  quality.  The  sanitation  of 
the  utensils  in  which  cream  or  milk  is  handled  and  the  conditions 
surrounding  it  during  ripening  are  of  the  utmost  importance.  A 
common  practice  among  some  farm  women  is  to  put  the  milk  in 
shallow,  uncovered  pans  which  are  exposed  to  dust,  flies,  and 
the  odors  which  frequent  the  pantry  and  kitchen.  Such  pans 
are  allowed  to  stand  until  the  milk  clabbers  and  a  thick  leathery 
sheet  of  cream  is  formed  on  the  top.  Good  butter  cannot  be  made 
from  milk  or  cream  handled  in  this  manner.  A  deep,  narrow 
vessel  known  as  a  shot-gun  can  is  recommended  for  use  in  ripen- 
ing cream  or  milk  because  it  is  easily  handled,  washed  and  can  be 
covered.  These  can  be  bought  at  hardware  stores  or  mail  order 
houses. 

Utensils. — Convenient  equipment  for  making  butter  is  essen- 
tial and  very  inexpensive.  It  is  customary  on  many  farms  to 
churn  the  cream  in  an  earthen  jar  with  a  wooden  dasher  and  stick. 
Earthenware  vessels  commonly  used  are  porous  and  often  contain 
blisters  or  air  bubbles,  all  of  which  will  absorb  milk.  The  milk 
sours  in  these  places  and  gives  the  vessels  a  characteristic  bad 
odor.  These  churns  are  hard  to  clean  and  heavy  to  handle  and 

99 


100  HOME  LABOR  SAVING  DEVICES 

should  never  be  used.  A  wooden  barrel  churn  is  one  of  the  best 
types  to  use  because  it  is  easily  operated,  cleaned,  and  handled. 
Churns  which  contain  agitators  and  gearing  of  different  kinds 
should  not  be  used. 

A  dairy  thermometer,  which  can  be  bought  at  any  local  hard- 
ware or  drug  store  at  a  small  cost,  is  necessary  to  determine  the 
temperature  of  the  cream. 

When  there  are  at  least  four  cows  milked,  a  small  cream 
separator  will  be  a  good  investment.  Where  a  separator  cannot 
be  had,  hand  skimming  is  advisable  if  the  cream  is  properly 
handled. 

Ripening  of  Cream. — The  ripening  of  milk  or  cream  is  the 
natural  souring  which  takes  place  under  proper  conditions  and 
which  gives  butter  its  characteristic  flavor.  The  quality  of  butter 
depends,  to  a  large  extent,  upon  proper  ripening.  Where  hand 
skimming  is  practised,  set  separate  milkings  in  cool,  well-venti- 
lated places  and  allow  to  stand  from  twelve  to  eighteen  hours 
for  the  cream  to  rise.  Skim  the  cream  off  with  a  cup  or  large 
spoon,  put  it  into  a  can  which  is  kept  in  a  cool  place  at  a  tempera- 
ture of  50  degrees  Fahrenheit  or  below.  Skimmings  from  the 
different  milkings  are  cooled  to  the  same  temperature  before  being 
added  to  this  stock  can.  The  contents  of  this  can  must  be  stirred 
each  time  after  adding  the  cream.  When  sufficient  cream  for  a 
churning  has  been  secured  in  this  way  the  contents  of  the  stock 
can  are  warmed  to  a  temperature  of  58  to  60  degrees  Fahrenheit 
and  in  winter  62  degrees  Fahrenheit,  then  allowed  to  stand  in  a 
clean,  well-ventilated  place  for  twelve  or  eighteen  hours  to  ripen. 
This  warming  is  done  by  setting  the  can  in  a  vessel  of  hot  water. 
Frequent  stirring  is  necessary  during  the  ripening  period.  Cream 
properly  ripened  has  a  velvety  and  glossy  appearance,  with  a  mild 
but  pleasant  sour  taste.  When  hand  skimming  is  not  practised 
the  churning  will  have  to  be  done  more  frequently  to  prevent  the 
milk  from  becoming  too  sour  and  giving  the  butter  a  bad  flavor. 

Coloring  the  Butter. — The  natural  color  of  butter  when  the 
cows  can  get  plenty  of  nature's  food  is  a  soft,  straw  yellow. 
During  the  winter,  if  it  is  necessary  to  use  dry  feed  alone,  the 
butter  will  lack  color  which  can  be  supplied  by  the  addition  of  a 


DAIRY  DEVICES  101 

harmless  coloring  matter.  The  amount  of  coloring  matter  neces- 
sary to  use  varies  with  the  season  but  usually  8  to-  12  drops  of 
harmless  vegetable  coloring  to  every  pound  of  butter  will  be 
sufficient  in  the  winter  time.  This  coloring  matter  may  be  bought 
at  most  drug  stores. 

Churning. — When  the  cream  is  ready  for  churning,  rinse  the 
churn  with  scalding  water  to  cleanse  it  thoroughly  and  to  swell 
the  pores  in  the  wood.  Following  this,  cool  the  churn  with  cold 
water  to  prevent  the  raising  of  the  temperature  of  the  cream 
when  put  into  the  churn.  The  cream  should  be  poured  through  a 
strainer  into  the  churn  to  remove  lumps  or  hard  white  specks  of 
cream  which  may  have  dried  to  the  sides  of  the  can.  Gas  will 
form  in  the  churn  during  the  first  few  minutes  of  churning  which 
must  be  let  out  by  removing  the  cork  at  the  bottqm  of  the  churn. 
It  may  be  necessary  to  repeat  this  operation  several  times.  After 
the  churn  has  been  in  operation  about  20  minutes,  the  cream  be- 
comes thick  and  shortly  after,  very  small,  mealy  granules  begin 
to  form.  At  this  point  the  cream  begins  to  break  away  from  the 
glass  in  the  top  of  the  churn  lid.  When  this  stage  is  reached, 
after  every,  four  or  five  revolutions  the  lid  should  be  removed  and 
the  size  of  the  granules  observed.  Wihen  these  have  reached  the 
size  of  large  wheat  grains,  the  churning  operation  has  been  com- 
pleted. At  this  point  the  glass  in  the  top  appears  clear  which 
indicates  that  the  granules  slide  off  instead  of  sticking  to  the  top. 
It  usually  takes  at  least  25  minutes  to  churn  good  butter.  If  it 
takes  longer,  the  temperature  of  the  next  cream  churned  should 
be  raised  a  few  degrees. 

Washing  the  Butter. — When  churning  is  completed  draw  the 
buttermilk  off  through  a  strainer  to  catch  small  particles  of  butter. 
The  butter  is  washed  to  remove  the  buttermilk,  to  improve  the 
flavor,  and  to  keep  better.  Buttermilk  is  washed  out  of  the  butter 
and  not  worked  out.  The  temperature  of  the  wash  water  should 
be  the  same  as  that  of  the  buttermilk  and  is  determined  by  the 
use  of  a  thermometer.  This  temperature  depends  upon  the  con- 
dition of  the  butter;  if  the  butter  is  too  soft  the  water  must  be 
colder,  and  vice  versa.  In  washing  butter,  water  is  added  and  the 
churn  given  two  or  three  revolutions  so  as  to  turn  the  butter; 


102  HOME  LABOR  SAVING  DEVICES 

after  which  the  water  is  drawn  off  and  the  process  repeated  several 
times  until  the  water  drawn  off  is  clear. 

Salting  the  Butter. — The  butterworker,  paddles,  and  mold  or 
printer  are  scalded  and  cooled  in  the  same  way  as  the  churn  and 
for  the  same  reasons.  The  churn  is  then  drawn  near  the  worker 
and  the  butter  granules  removed  with  paddle  or  ladle  and  placed 
on  worker.  The  hands  must  never  touch  butter  for  sanitary 
reasons  and  because  they  will  give  the  butter  a  greasy  appearance. 
As  soon  as  the  butter  is  placed  on  the  worker,  one  ounce  of  fine, 
clean  salt  to  a  pound  of  butter  is  sprinkled  uniformly  over  the 
butter. 

Working  the  Butter. — Butter  should  then  be  worked  well  to 
distribute  the  salt  through  it  and  to  expel  the  excess  water.  Butter 
is  salted  to  improve  the  flavor,  to  serve  the  market  purposes  and 
to  some  degree  to  act  as  a  preservative.  In  working  the  butter, 
the  pile  of  granules  is  pressed  flat  with  the  lever,  and  the  flattened 
mass  of  butter  turned  over  about  12  or  14  times  until  the  edges  of 
butter,  when  broken,  have  a  granular  appearance  similar  to  a 
broken  half-baked  potato.  Too  much  working  destroys  the  grain 
and  the  edges  when  broken  apart  will  have  a  slightly  stringy 
appearance,  while  too  little  working  gives  a  streaked  or  mottled 
butter. 

Printing  and  Wrapping  the  Butter. — The  printer  is  removed 
from  the  water  as  soon  as  the  working  has  been  completed  and 
with  both  hands  it  is  pressed  on  the  mass  of  butter  until  it  is 
packed  full.  That  remaining  over  the  edge  is  then  cut  off  with 
a  paddle  and  the  print  pushed  out  on  a  sheet  of  parchment  paper 
and  neatly  wrapped.  The  printing  and  wrapping  of  butter  cannot 
be  emphasized  too  strongly,  for  a  good  appearance  is  fundamental 
to  obtaining  good  markets  for  the  butter.  It  is  very  much  easier 
to  get  a  good  market  for  butter  packed  neatly  in  parchment  paper 
than  it  is  for  that  wrapped  in  a  cloth  as  is  the  case  in  so  many 
country  homes.  It  is  very  important  that  a  good  grade  of  parch- 
ment paper  should  be  used  for  wrapping  butter  and  this  can  be 
bought  from  firms  handling  dairy  supplies  or  it  may  be  ordered 
by  mail.  The  brick-shaped  mold  is  used  because  prints  can  be 
handled  with  convenience  and  sucih  prints  are  a  standard  on 


DAIRY  DEVICES  103 

the  market.  A  mold  of  this  kind  can  be  purchased  from  local 
hardware  stores  or  mail  order  houses  for  from  $1.50  to  $5.00. 
The  placing  of  the  wrapped  print  in  a  pasteboard  box  or  carton 
not  only  protects  the  butter  from  the  finger  prints  but  also  from 
dust  and  dirt.  These  cartons  may  be  bought  from  any  firm 
handling  dairy  supplies.  Butter  put  up  in  this  manner  is 
convenient  to  handle,  attractive  in  appearance,  and  is  also  an 
advertisement. 

Marketing  the  Butter. — Tihe  appearance  of  the  package  deter- 
mines to  a  large  extent  the  selling  price  of  butter  and  every  effort 
should  be  made  to  make  it  as  neat,  attractive,  and  convenient 
to  handle  as  possible.  The  ultimate  end  in  the  making  of  farm 
butter  is  to  supply  a  delicate  food  for  the  family  and  to  obtain  a 
profit  from  the  surplus.  To  do  this,  it  is  necessary  to  create  a 
demand  by  giving  satisfaction  to  your  customers.  This  can  be 
done  by  putting  up  butter  superior  in  quality  and  attractive  in 
appearance. 


104  HOME  LABOR  SAVING  DEVICES 

BUTTER  WORKER 

A  very  useful  appliance,  and  easily  operated,  making  the 
butter  into  a  close-grained  mass  without  injuring  the  texture  of 
it.  It  is  made  of  poplar,  triangular  in  shape,  with  a  corrugated 
roller.  This  roller  fits  in  a  hole  made  in  a  piece  of  metal  which  is 
put  across  the  smaller  end  of  the  worker.  This  worker  may  be 
operated  by  putting  it  on  the  kitchen  table,  or  it  may  be  placed 
on  adjustable  legs. 


MATERIALS  : 

13'  maple  for  bottom,  sides,  and  battens. 

3'  ift"  X  2"  X  5"  for  roller. 

10  No.  14  screws,  3"  to  fasten  the  sides  on  bottom. 

8  No.  14  screws,  3"  to  fasten  battens  on  bottom. 

i  piece  28-gauge  zinc  4^"  wide  X  16"  long,  for  front  piece. 

8  four-penny  box  nails  to  fasten  zinc  across  the  front. 

i  pan  2"  deep  X  12"  wide  X  14"  long,  to  place  under  worker  in  small 

end  to  catch  drippings  from  butter. 
Wood  glue  to  fasten  handle  on  roller. 

DIMENSIONS: 

Bottom:  i  piece  i%"  thick  X  30"  wide  in  front,  4"  wide  in  back  X  26" 

long. 

Sides:  2  pieces  i*4"  thick  X  6"  wide,  X  30"  long. 
Battens:  i  piece  1^4"  thick  X  4"  wide  X  30"  long. 

i  piece  %"  thick  X  2"  wide  X  2"  long. 
Roller:  i  piece  4"  thick  X  4"  wide  X  36"  long. 
Handle:  i  piece  5"  long. 


DAIRY  DEVICES 


105 


DIRECTIONS  : 

Taper  the  bottom  piece  at  one  end,  using  a  radius  of  31".  Screw  the 
battens  (iJ4"  X  4"  X  30")  (iJ4"  x  2"  x  2")  on  the  bottom,  making  the 
holes  large  enough  to  fit  the  heads  of  the  screws.  Taper  the  two  sides 
and  nail  them  to  the  bottom.  The  roller  is  made  36"  long  and  2"  in 


Butter 
Worker. 


diameter,  measuring  J4"  from  the  end  to  round  the  corners.  Bore  a  hole 
in  the  end  and  put  the  handle  on  it.  Put  a  small  metal  pin  in  the  end  of 
roller  to  hold  handle  in  place.  Tack  the  piece  of  zinc  across  narrow  end 
of  the  worker,  making  a  hole  in  the  centre  to  fit  end  of  roller.  Sandpaper 
when  completed. 


106  HOME  LABOR  SAVING  DEVICES 

MILKING  STOOL 

A  convenient  device  used  in  milking,  which  not  only  provides 
a  seat  for  the  one  who  is  milking,  but  a  platform  with  a  hoop  to 
hold  the  bucket.  The  bench  is  light  in  weight  which  makes  it  easy 
to  handle.  When  not  in  use  it  may  be  hung  on  the  wall. 

MATERIALS  : 

2^/2  yellow  pine. 

I  piece  of  metal,  i"  wide  X  15"  long,  to  make  hoop  to  hold  bucket. 

y$  lb.  6-penny  nails. 

Sandpaper  and  paint 


DIMENSIONS  : 

Top:  i  piece   £4"  thick  X  10"  wide  X  14"  long. 

Brackets:  4  pieces  M"  thick  X  3"  wide  X  3"  long  to  support  top  shelf. 

2   pieces    Y^'  thick  X  2"  wide  X  3"    long   to   support   shelf    which   holds 

bucket. 

Shelf:  i  piece  $4"  thick  X  3^"  wide  X  10"  long  to  hold  bucket. 
Ends:  2  pieces  H"  thick  X  10"  wide  X  nj4"  long. 


DAIRY  DEVICES 


107 


s 

7 

< 

,*— 

1 

X 

DIRECTIONS  : 

Make  the  top  of  the  stool,  using  the  piece  (1/4"  X  10"  X  14"  ),  rounding 
both  ends  to  a  radius  of  5".  Make  the  front  and  back  supports  as  shown 
in  illustrations  4  and  5.  Make  the  bucket  shelf  (^"  X  3^"  X  10") 
next,  fastening  the  two  pieces  (££"  X  2"  X  3")  to  the  shelf  as  supports 
and  then  nailing  the  whole  to  end  of  stool.  Sandpaper  the  stool  and  then 
paint  the  whole  any  desired  color,  preferably  white. 


108 


HOME  LABOR  SAVING  DEVICES 


CHEESE-MAKING  EQUIPMENT 

Devices  used  in  the  process  of  making  cottage,  Neufchatel, 
and  cream  cheese  are  given,  accompanied  by  directions  for  the  use 
of  each  of  these  devices  in  the  making  of  these  cheeses. 

Construction  of  Drainer. — The  rack  shown  in  the  figure  is 
13  inches  wide,  13  inches  long,  and  10  inches  deep.  The  corner 
posts  extend  il/2  inches  above  and  below  the  strips  at  the  top  and 
bottom  with  the  tops  rounded  as  shown  in  the  illustration.  The 
bottom  slats  fit  loosely  into  notches,  hence  they  may  be  removed 


when  the  draining  rack  is  washed.  The  materials  required  are 
four  corner  posts  il/2  X  i/4  inches;  15  strips  i  X  H  X  13  inches 
and  2  strips  i  X  Y%  X  13  inches  notched  to  receive  the  bottom 
slats.  Pine  or  poplar  may  be  used  for  the  construction  of 
this  device. 

Construction  of  Press. — 3  or  4  inch  poplar  boards  18  X  18 
inches  are  used  for  this  press.  Cleats  are  placed  on  the  back  of 
these  boards  to  keep  them  from  warping.  The  lower  board  of 
this  press  has  a  circular  groove  which  has  an  outlet  in  one  side 
to  allow  the  whey  to  drain  off. 


Moulding  the  cheese 


Necessary  equipment  used  in  cheese-making 


DAIRY  DEVICES  109 

Cottage  Cheese. — Cottage  cheese  has  been  produced  from  time 
immemorial  upon  the  farm.  Ordinarily,  it  is  made  from  milk 
that  has  been  allowed  to  stand  until  it  thickens  by  natural  souring. 
It  is  then  skimmed.  After  skimming,  the  rather  firm  mass  of 
loppered  milk  is  stirred  with  a  large  wooden  spoon. 

Simultaneously  with  the  gentle  breaking  of  the  coagulum  the 
temperature  of  the  mixture  of  whey  and  curd  is  gradually  raised  to 
about  95  degrees  Fahrenheit  and  maintained  at  that  temperature 
for  five  minutes.  This  mixture  should  be  stirred  occasionally  but 
not  vigorously.  Too  much  stirring  will  cause  the  mass  to  drain 
slowly.  After  this  heating  process  the  mixture  of  whey  and  curd 
is  poured  into  the  draining  cloth;  usually  muslin  or  cotton  sheet- 
ing is  stretched  over  the  draining  rack,  which  is  especially  con- 
structed for  this  purpose.  Such  a  rack  as  shown  in  the  illustration 
can  be  made  very  easily  and  at  a  small  cost.  Thirty  pounds  of 
milk  per  rack  may  be  easily  handled.  Perhaps,  in  handling  the 
milk  in  this  quantity,  it  would  be  advisable  to  make  the  rack  some- 
what longer  than  the  one  illustrated.  A  rack  rectangular  in 
shape,  13  inches  wide,  36  inches  long  and  10  inches  deep  is  suffi- 
cient. The  draining  mixture  is  left  undisturbed  for  half  an  hour 
and  then  the  curd  is  worked  toward  the  center  of  the  cloth  by 
means  of  a  spoon  or  ladle.  The  last  of  the  whey  is  removed  by 
raising  and  lowering  repeatedly  the  ends  of  the  draining  cloth. 
After  draining  the  curd  in  this  manner  the  corner  of  the  cloth  is 
folded  over  to  form  a  sack  and  the  curd  is  placed  between  the 
heavy  boards  or  press.  If  more  pressure  is  needed  weights  may 
be  placed  on  the  top  board.  When  the  curd  has  acquired  the 
consistency  desired  it  is  salted  to  suit  the  taste,  and  usually  a 
small  amount  of  cream  is  added.  The  use  of  the  latter,  however, 
is  entirely  optional. 

The  expulsion  of  the  whey  by  heating  hardens  the  particles  of 
curd,  giving  a  grainy  texture  to  the  mass. 

Neufchatel  Cheese. — Fresh  clean  milk  is  required  to  make  a 
high-grade  Neufchatel  cheese.  In  no  case  should  the  milk  be  over 
twelve  hours  old.  A  slow  development  of  a  clean  acid  flavor  is 
demanded.  The  addition  of  a  commercial  lactic  starter  in  small 


110  HOME  LABOR  SAVING  DEVICE 

amounts  aids  in  obtaining  curd  free  from  objectionable  ferments. 
Too  much  starter  will  produce  acid  too  rapidly  and  give  a  rough 
mealy  curd.  A  very  satisfactory  product  may  be  secured,  if  the 
milk  is  reasonably  clean,  without  using  any  starter. 

Starter. — The  starter  is  merely  soured  milk.  In  making  a 
home-made  starter  place  a  clean  milk  bottle  and  tumbler  in  a  pan 
of  cold  water  and  bring  same  to  boiling ;  remove  the  bottle,  allow 
it  to  cool  and  then  fill  it  with  the  freshest,  cleanest  milk  available. 
The  bottle  should  now  be  covered  with  a  sterilized  glass  tumbler 
in  order  to  prevent  the  entrance  of  dirt.  Allow  the  milk  to  sour  at 
a  temperature  of  about  75°  F.  (room  temperature). 

Two  cubic  centimeters  of  active  starter  for  each  thirty-pound 
can  of  milk  will  give  good  results.  After  adding  the  starter  the 
milk  is  vigorously  stirred  and  warmed  to  a  temperature  of  80°  F. 
Rennet  is  now  added  at  the  rate  of  30  drops  per  100  pounds  of 
milk.  Upon  a  small  scale  junket  tablets  may  be  used  for  curdling 
purposes.  The  mixture,  after  being  thoroughly  stirred,  is  left  at 
rest  over  night  at  room  temperature,  or  preferably  a  little  higher. 
The  firm  curd  is  now  poured  upon  the  draining  rack  as  with  the 
cottage  cheese  and  allowed  to  drain  for  about  two  hours.  Toward 
the  end  of  the  draining  period  the  curd  is  worked  toward  the  center 
of  the  cloth  by  means  of  a  ladle.  The  cloths  containing  the  curd 
are  now  tied  together  bag  fashion  and  pressed.  The  hand-made 
contrivance  illustrated  may  be  used,  or  merely  allow  weights  to 
rest  on  bags  of  curd  over  night.  The  more  whey  that  is  removed 
the  better  will  be  the  flavor  and  keeping  qualities  of  the  cheese. 
The  curd  should  drain  out  and  not  dry  out.  Mix  in  the  salt  to 
suit  the  taste  by  using  a  butter  worker  or  a  pail  and  potato  masher. 
Ordinarily  about  one  ounce  of  salt  to  four  pounds  of  curd  is  suf- 
ficient. The  cheese  is  now  ready  to  be  run  through  the  food  chop- 
per and  molded.  Sometimes  it  is  packed  tightly  into  screw  top 
jars  or  jelly  glasses  with  tight  covers,  but  usually  the  cheese  is 
molded  into  shape  and  wrapped  in  parchment  paper,  surrounded 
by  tin  foil  to  exclude  the  air.  Such  molds  may  be  formed  by  hand 
closely  enough  to  exclude  the  air.  Butter  printers  are  often  used. 


DAIRY  DEVICES  111 

If  the  work  is  done  upon  a  small  scale  some  kind  of  a  hand  formed 
package  is  probably  most  economical. 

Cream  Cheese. — Cream  cheese  is  made  in  practically  the  same 
way  as  Neufchatel  cheese  except  that  the  former  is  made  out  of 
cream  testing  from  6  to  8  per  cent.  fat. 

More  detailed  information  on  the  subject  of  making  cheese 
can  be  obtained  from  the  bulletins  and  books  suggested  for  refer- 
ence reading  in  the  list  given  in  the  back  of  this  book. 


HOME  LABOR  SAVING  DEVICES 
APPENDIX 

FUNDAMENTALS  IN  WOODWORKING 

NOTE. — Some  of  the  terms  used  in  the  text  are  explained  in 
this  chapter. 

Tenon. — A  tenon  is  a  piece  of  wood  shaped  like  a  tongue  by 
dividing  the  end  into  three  rectangular  parts,  cutting  the  sides 
away  and  leaving  the  middle  which  is  shaped  to  form  a  tongue. 

Mortise. — A  mortise  is  a  hollow  cut  in  to  receive  a  correspond- 
ing piece  of  wood.  It  is  made  by  measuring  the  required  distances 
on  a  piece  of  wood  and  boring  holes.  Take  out  these  portions  of 
wood  with  a  chisel  until  the  mortise  is  of  the  required  size. 
Mortise  and  tenon  joints  put  together  in  one  direction,  as  those 
made  in  the  back  of  a  chair,  are  much  easier  made  than  those 
which  are  joined  in  two  directions,  as  in  the  framework  of  a  stool. 

Mitred  Joint. — There  are  many  modifications  of  this  joint 
but  the  one  most  used  is  the  one  made  at  an  angle  of  45  degrees. 
Mitred  joints  are  easily  made  but  they  have  a  tendency  to  shrink, 
leaving  an  opening  on  the  inside  of  the  joint. 

Cleat. — A  piece  of  wood  nailed  down  to  secure  something  from 
slipping.  The  size  of  a  cleat  will  be  determined  by  the  weight 
which  it  is  to  hold. 

Bevel. — A  bevel  is  a  finished  edge  to  a  piece  of  wood.  The 
kind  of  problem  must  determine  the  kind  of  beveled  edge  to  be 
made.  The  blade  of  the  square  must  be  set  at  the  correct  angle 
in  making  a  bevel  edge.  The  most  popular  bevel  is  made  by 
setting  the  bevel  square  at  an  angle  of  45  degrees. 

Bracket  or  Brace. — A  supporting  piece  for  a  shelf  or  any  other 
place  which  needs  strengthening. 

Panel. — Any  area  out  of  level.  It  may  be  sunk  below  or  raised 
above  the  general  face  of  the  surrounding  work.  They  are, set 
in  grooves  made  the  proper  depth  with  a  plane.  Every  piece  of 
wood  used  in  panelling  must  be  straight  with  the  face  surface  of 
the  wood  and  straight  and  square  with  the  front  edge  to  make 
a  flat  and  square  panel. 


APPENDIX  113 

Groove. — A  groove  is  a  furrow  or  a  long  hollow.  The  depth 
of  the  furrow  depends  on  the  rail  it  is  to  hold. 

Taper. — A  taper  is  a  graduated  point.  All  parts  of  the  sur- 
face must  have  the  same  amount  of  taper  to  make  it  equally  tight 
at  all  points  when  driven  into  place.  Draw  lines  on  the  end  of  the 
wood  and  across  the  center  at  equal  distances  from  the  corners 
and  with  the  surface  straight  on  both  sides.  Care  must  be  taken 
not  to  split  the  corners  while  making  a  taper. 

Plugs. — Plugs  are  pieces  of  tapered  wood  used  as  a  stopper, 
such  as  in  the  illustration  of  Jelly  Strainer  No.  2.  When  plugs 
are  to  be  used,  the  holes  must  be  made  in  the  wood  before  the 
pieces  are  put  together. 

"Penny." — This  term  is  a  corruption  of  "pound"  and  used 
in  speaking  of  different  kinds  of  nails.  For  example,  eight- 
penny  nails  means  that  one  thousand  of  them  weigh  eight  pounds. 

Radius  Bar. — A  bar  pivoted  at  one  end,  about  which  it  swings, 
and  having  its  other  end  attached  to  a  piece  which  it  causes  to 
move  in  a  circular  arc  as  in  the  corrugated  roller  made  to  work 
the  butter. 

•    Finishing. — There  are  two  things  to  be  considered  in  finishing, 
woodwork;  the  preservation  of  the  wood,  and  the  artistic  finish. 
Three  steps  are  necessary  in  putting  on  the  finishing  touches. 
First,  the  surfaces  made  smooth  by  the  use  of  sandpaper;  the 
second,  staining  or  varnishing,  and  the  third,  polishing. 

Sandpaper. — Sandpaper  is  not  expected  to  do  the  work  of 
edged  tools.  Tool  work  must  be  completed  before  using  sand- 
paper, or  particles  of  dust  will  get  into  the  pores  of  the  wood 
which  will  dull  the  tools  while  working  with  them.  Never  sand- 
paper across  the  grain  of  the  wood.  While  dressing  flat  surfaces, 
use  a  piece  of  sandpaper  put  over  a  block  of  wood. 

Stains. — Water,  oil,  and  alcoholic  stains  are  used  for  staining 
woodwork.  All  have  their  advantages  and  disadvantages,  but 
for  general  purposes  the  alcoholic  stains  are  highly  recommended, 
Johnson's  wood  dye  being  one  of  the  best.  A  good  water  stain 
is  made  by  boiling  an  extract  of  logwood,  the  size  of  a  walnut, 
with  four  ounces  of  water.  This  is  applied  to  the  wood  while 


114  HOME  LABOR  SAVING  DEVICES 

hot,  using  a  brush  or  sponge  with  which  to  apply  it.  Repeat  the 
application  until  the  desired  color  is  obtained.  Varnish  must  be 
used  only  when  a  hard,  transparent  finish  is  desired. 

Polish  or  Wax. — Satisfactory  results  cannot  be  obtained 
unless  the  surface  is  smooth  and  well  prepared  by  the  use  of  sand- 
paper and  stain.  A  cheap  recipe  for  making  wax  is  given  as 
follows : 

I    lb.  beeswax.  I  pt  turpentine. 

l/2  pt.  alcohol. 

Break  up  the  beeswax  and  melt  it  into  the  consistency  of 
thick  cream  in  a  bowl  placed  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water. 
Remove  bowl  from  the  fire,  gradually  beating  into  the  wax  the 
turpentine  and  alcohol.  Store  it  away  in  covered  jars  and  warm 
slightly  when  it  is  to  be  used.  Spread  a  thin  layer  on  a  soft 
woollen  cloth  and  apply  it  to  the  surface. 


APPENDIX  115 

SUGGESTED  LIST  OF  TOOLS 

Stanley  "  Bed  Rock  "  smooth-plane,  No.  603 $1.60 

Disston's  Crosscut-saw,  No.  9,  22" — 10  points 1.15 

Disston's  Back-saw,  No.  4,  10" 95 

Buck  Bros,  firmer  chisel,  i" 35 

Buck  Bros,  firmer  chisel,  y^" 20 

Hammond's  Adze-eye  hammer,  No.  3,  7  oz .45 

Hardened  blade  try-square,  No.  5^,  6" 25 

Beech  Marking-gage,  No.  64^,  8" 20 

Sloyd  Knife,  No.  7,  2^"  blade >30 

Boxwood  rule,  2',  4- fold 12 

Barber's  ratchet  brace,  No.  33,  8"  sweep 1.40 

Miter-box,  beech,  12"  long,  No.  oo 30 

Brad  awls,  handled,  i",  1^4",  i^",  ^" 15 

Set  Russell  Jennings  Auger-bits,  VM,",  Vie",  V»",  Vie",  and  8/i«" 1.40 

Quire  sandpaper,  No.  oo .30 

Quire  sandpaper,  No.  i 30 

Total   $9.42 

NOTE:  Sufficient  equipment  for  constructing  all  of  these  devices  may  be 
found  in  average  country  homes.  The  work  may  be  successfully  done  with 
fewer  tools  but  this  list  is  given  as  a  suggestion  for  schools. 


116  HOME  LABOR  SAVING  DEVICES 

LIST  OF  PUBLICATIONS  FOR  SUPPLEMENTARY  READING 

Farm  Butter-making,  Farmers'  Bulletin  541,  U.  S.  Department  of  Agriculture, 

Washington,  D.  C. 

Butter-making  on  the  Farm,  Georgia  State  College  of  Agriculture,  Athens,  Ga. 
Butter-making,  Storrs  Experiment  Station,  Storrs,  Conn. 
Cheese-making,  Wisconsin  Experiment  Station,  Madison,  Wis.,  Bulletin  181. 
Neufchatel   Cheese,   Bulletin  78,   Storrs   Experiment   Station,    Storrs,   Conn. 
Cottage  or  Dutch  Cheese  and  Other  Cheese,  Oklahoma  Agricultural  College, 

Stillwater,  Okla. 
Conveniences  for  Handling  the  Farm  Cow  and  Her  Products,  Special,  U.  S. 

Dept.  of  Agriculture,  Office  of  the  Secretary,  Washington,  D.  C. 
The  Production  and  Care  of  Milk  and  Cream,  Special,  U.  S.  Dept.  of  Agri , 

Office  of  the  Secretary,  Washington,  D.  C. 
A   Plan   for  a   Small  Dairy  House,   Farmers'   Bulletin  689,   Department  of 

Agriculture,  Washington,  D.  C. 
The  Control  of  Chicken  Mites  and  Lice,  Iowa  State  College  of  Agriculture, 

Ames,  Iowa. 
How  to  Care  for  the  Little  Chick,  West  Virginia  University  Agri.  Exp.  Station, 

Morgantown,  W.  Va. 
Suggestions  on   Poultry   Raising  for  the   Southern   Farmer,   Special,  U.   S. 

Department  of  Agriculture,  Office  of  the  Secretary,  Washington,  D.  C. 
Oregon  Station  Trap-Nest,  Oregon  Agricultural  College,  Corvallis,  Oregon. 
A  Simple  Trap-Nest  for  Poultry,  Farmers'  Bulletin  682,  U.  S.  Department  of 

Agriculture,  Washington,  D.  C. 
The  Organization  of  Boys'  and  Girls'  Poultry  Clubs,  Farmers'  Bulletin  562, 

U.  S.  Department  of  Agriculture,  Washington,  D.  C. 

Running  Water  for  Farm  Homes,  A.  &  M.  College,  Agricultural  College,  Miss. 
Domestic  Water  Supply,  Bulletin  215  by  V.  M.  Cone,  Special,  Colorado  Ex- 
tension Service,  Fort  Collins,  Colorado. 
Simple  Water  Supplies  for  the  Farm,  Extension  Bulletin  18,  University  of 

Nebraska,  Lincoln,  Nebr. 


INDEX 


Barrel,  garbage,  74 

Bath,  shower,  80 

Board,   ironing,   19 

Box,  blacking,  61 

Box,  coal,  31 

Boxes,  dust,  for  poultry,  97 

Box,  wood,  37 

Brooder,  98 

Butter-making  equipment,  99 

Cabinet,  wall,  for  kitchen,  17 

Chariot,  scrubbing,  75 

Cheese-making  equipment,  108 

Cook  stove  drier,  34 

Cooker,  fireless,  39 

Drainer,  dish,  26 

House,  poultry,  84 

Hopper,  dry  mash,  for  poultry  No.  i,  89 

Hopper,  dry  mash,  for  poultry  No. 2, 92 

Mop,  dustless,  67 

Nests,  poultry,  85 

Publications,    list    for    supplementary 

reading,  116 
Rack,  cheese,  108 


Rack,   dish,  28 

Rack,  oat-sprouting  trays,  95 

Refrigerator,  iceless,  No.  i,  51 

Refrigerator,  iceless,  No.  2,  55 

Roller  towel,  63 

Screen,  house,  49 

Screen,  sewing,  77 

Sideboard,  46 

Stand,  umbrella,  58 

Strainer,  jelly,  No.  i,  21 

Strainer,  jelly,  No.  2,  24 

Stool,  milking,  106 

Swing,  porch,  65 

Table,  folding  canning,  68 

Table,  vegetable  paring,  15 

Tester,  egg,  86 

Tools,  suggested  list,  115 

Trap,  fly,  71 

Vessel,  drinking,  for  poultry,  97 

Wagon,  roller  tray,  43 

Waterworks  system,  practical,  82 

Woodworking,   fundamentals  in,   112 

Worker,  butter,  104 


117 


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M 


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